Red on camouflage gray

[Denis Kolar]

I have a customer that wants to print red team name and logo on the front of these shirts (or something like these).
Would I be able to this with pfp red or would I need underbase?


Thanks

[Gabe]

just by looking at the shirt you got several shades from white to black
i would use UB with good opacity white ink.
to make sure you covered those shades well
test print one see how it looks at the end of the dryer
pay more attention to the black
it may want to show thru
Gabe

[Orion]

You may want to use a low bleed white for the underbase. I have seen 100% cotton camo shirts with dye migration issues.

[bimmridder]

We print a lot of camo shirts. I'm sure they vary from brand to brand, but some of these are the WORST bleeders I've ever seen. We have gone to a performance underbase like Wilflex UB grey or Rutland Dyno Grey. Then we may or may not have to use a white under base depending on top colors. Some of these shirts suck BIG time.

[Denis Kolar]

Thanks guys, that is what I thought.
I contacted the guy and quoted him two colors instead on red only.

Thanks again

[Fluid]

I can't see the shirt. 

you got same great advice with the lo bleed white.  Def a must as it will also help the image pop from the camo more than just a straight red print.

[tonypep]

The reason they bleed is due to the fact that they are piece printed then sewn rather than dyed. The WB inks they use are bleeders.

[bimmridder]

Tony, I also found that the same color shirts, from the same manufacturer would bleed at different level, depending on the country they were made in.  We just play it safe and use Wilflex Performance UB Grey. No worries.

[tonypep]

Thats the way to do it.
 Ys ago we ran a huge Disney cut & sew for 101 Dalmations. The pieces came in preprinted with black paw prints and we were printing a series of ginormous puppy heads with.......you guessed it; lots of white. Turns out the belt printer or ink distributor must have had a lot of leftover pink WB because a few months into the program those "black" paw prints turned pink after printing on top. Thats where, I believe, the notion of a UB gray came about.

[Screened Gear]

FROM A DESIGN POINT: depending on the design you may want to put a white outline on the design so it pops.

[Denis Kolar]

FROM A DESIGN POINT: depending on the design you may want to put a white outline on the design so it pops.

Yes, I thought about that. But first, I have to have her accept the quote
Adding an outline will be easy

[RICK STEFANICK]

there is always the option of using the rutland HSA waterbase. that product is excellent for 100% poly so i'm sure it would work on this application. other than that as dave said the dyno grey works with no worries..

[Sbrem]

FROM A DESIGN POINT: depending on the design you may want to put a white outline on the design so it pops.

I thought that too, but then they are camoflage (we have someone demanding a red ink left front on Royal and Kelly, they ust won't listen...)

Steve

[Denis Kolar]

Plastisol only here, no waterbase or discharge

[Inkworks]

FROM A DESIGN POINT: depending on the design you may want to put a white outline on the design so it pops.

I was going to suggest the same thing. 

One other trick we used on small-medium runs on camo or red shirts was to run through the dryer at a regular cure cycle prior to printing, this really reduced the dye creep through white ink.

of course it does eat some time, but for 50 shirts it was better than ending up with sub-standard finished product.