Cad cut vinyl or ink on dri-fits?

[Prosperi-Tees]

Will cad cut work or is ink better?

[Frog]

How many? What color? Do you have Poly ink if they are printed in white or light?

[Prosperi-Tees]

Its going to be white on red. I do have poly white ink but am kinda nervous and wondering also is cad cut susceptible to bleeding as well?
If I go the ink route what mesh would you recommend? Its basic team name Cardinals on the front.

[Sbrem]

The CAD should work if it's for poly, and most are. Some of the poly's I've worked on tend to melt on occasion, like some Nike shorts I ran recently... Check with the manufacturer on that. Otherwise, go for the poly white ink. Test it by printing and letting it sit for a couple of days, if it doesn't change by then, you're probably safe. One Stroke has a new poly white, and it's creamier than most, not so stiff...

Steve

[Frog]

On a team run of 12, I would probably go for the cad-cut, but that's me.
As for them bleeding, they can, never happened to me, but I've heard of it. For known bad bleeders (or likely suspects), there is a Subli-Block from Specialty Materials. except that for Dazzle and misture wicking Poly, they recommend their "Extra" which is the choice for Nylon.

Siser, as far as I know, has no specific bleed resistant film, but also lists no limitations on type of poly.

If you decide to go heat seal, try to talk to a tech and get their take on it.

Steve, did the shorts melt in the dryer, or on a heat press?

[Orion]

Specialty materials makes a cad cut called SUBLIBLOCK, supposed to work on poly. I have used the newest one stroke for poly, it is called NP PRO WHITE, prints great and no dye migration. I actually printed it through a 230 S thread mesh as a sim process underbase, and it worked just fine. Keep your cure temperatures at a minimum!

[Prosperi-Tees]

Its a 15 piece run front chest and a small upper back logo. I am thinking I could probably get it done faster cutting and pressing because their are no individual names or numbers. I just dont do much team business and dont want to screw it up on my first try especially printing white ink on red poly, talk about lets break you in on the do's and dont's of printing on poly.

[Sbrem]

On a team run of 12, I would probably go for the cad-cut, but that's me.
As for them bleeding, they can, never happened to me, but I've heard of it. For known bad bleeders (or likely suspects), there is a Subli-Block from Specialty Materials. except that for Dazzle and misture wicking Poly, they recommend their "Extra" which is the choice for Nylon.

Siser, as far as I know, has no specific bleed resistant film, but also lists no limitations on type of poly.

If you decide to go heat seal, try to talk to a tech and get their take on it.

Steve, did the shorts melt in the dryer, or on a heat press?

Heat press, a Hotronix hat press, great for shorts legs, usually anyway. We had to take the temp down to 300° and 8 seconds, still left an impression, but the customer said they could live with it.

[chubsetc]

I like using Unions Poly white on performance fabrics, Union states a cure temp of 300 so i try to keep the temp on the temp gun at no more than 330 coming out of the drier and i know i should have a full cure.  I've used it very successfully on reds with no migration.

[Prosperi-Tees]

That's funny Chubs, I was just looking at union ink