Ordering some bolts of Mesh (anyone use 305 on a manual?)

[Printficient]

Good to know (Glitter).

Unless you think they will price match Atlas (230 Mesh (45 Microns) 55" wide @ $12.76/yard for 10 yards for example) I can't justify the extra cost given I've never done this before and have LOTS of learning and mistakes to make... plus my shop is not setup to hand "fragile" mesh at ALL so I imagine I will bust a lot of mesh doing stupid things at first.  Plus I'm getting 10% off being my first order... hence why I'm making sure I get as much as I "need" so I can take advantage of the discount.

I will do that for $7.90 cents a yard.  There would be a $10 cut fee as you are not getting the whole 40 yard bolt.  So 10 yards of 230 dyed Italian mesh for $89 all in.  Plus a little shipping.

[Printficient]

True but even crap mesh in a MZX is better than my crappy wooden statics or low tension aluminums.

I will remesh your crappy wood or static frames for you.  Ask MK162 (Brad) about our quality.
Call me tomorrow and I will give you my pricing on other mesh counts.
Sonny
404-895-1796

[Gilligan]

Hey Sonny, I may take you up on that offer... but Zoo is looking to do me right for now.  If there are any holes in the catalog I'll get with you to fill them in.

As far as remeshing, shipping is just the killer there... I can't see doing it.  Hell, I only paid $12 bucks each for the MZX's... hard to argue with that!

I'll probably be selling my statics unless someone can convince me why I should keep them.

[Frog]

One reason to keep them, if they are decent, would be if there are any jobs that you would like to catalog.

[Gilligan]

One reason to keep them, if they are decent, would be if there are any jobs that you would like to catalog.

I'm planning on "renting" my screens... $30 bucks for a year or maybe 18 months.  At the end of that period they could renew or decide to pay the screen charge ($12 bucks) next time they want that job.  That way it makes it more "acceptable" for me to tie up a roller for that long.

That is my thoughts right now at least.

[Screened Gear]

One reason to keep them, if they are decent, would be if there are any jobs that you would like to catalog.

I'm planning on "renting" my screens... $30 bucks for a year or maybe 18 months.  At the end of that period they could renew or decide to pay the screen charge ($12 bucks) next time they want that job.  That way it makes it more "acceptable" for me to tie up a roller for that long.

That is my thoughts right now at least.

That sounds scary. What if you have 200 screens "rented" that means you have to store them and have enough other screens to print. A local guy has 5000 square feet and he only have one auto and 3 manuals. The rest of the place is full of wood frames that people paid screen fees for. He holds them for 6 months then after that they have to pay the screen fee again. He has to have thousands of wood screens.  Many have to be years over the 6 months and the customer have not been back.

If I was you do the same thing your thinking about doing just don't keep the screens with the designs on them. Reclaim them and if they reorder make the screen again. If you have some guys that do order alot keep them but the rest just reclaim. Just my 2 cents.

[Gilligan]

If I was you do the same thing your thinking about doing just don't keep the screens with the designs on them. Reclaim them and if they reorder make the screen again. If you have some guys that do order alot keep them but the rest just reclaim. Just my 2 cents.

Two tricks... I don't have that many customers (yet) and two... that's what I planned on doing.  If I really need them I'll reclaim them and just reburn them if I need to run them again.

It's like the "extended warranty" that you should never buy.  You never use it but they got your cash!

[ZooCity]

The whole 'screen charge' = storing the actual screen concept is over.  Let it go and avoid the warehouse of wooden frames. 

What the hell is someone paying the fee for exactly in that sort of a setup?  To get their job reprinted on some warped wooden frame that's been sitting in god knows what sort of hot/cold/humid/bone dry environment?  I don't get it. 

This is my case that I make to clients who are accustomed to the idea of their screens being filed away in other shops- we don't do it because quality suffers and you shouldn't have to think too hard about what's going on on our end as the printers.  We price by the job at whatever size that job is, doesn't matter if it's a reprint and there's not screen charges anywhere on our invoice.   And besides, actual, screen-for-screen reprints are a rare, rare bird in our shop.

That said, it does make sense to file some jobs on stable, work-hardened screens but I would expect to toss that mesh when it's all said and done.  I would like to do this as funds are available for new screens since we have a pre-print line that involves constant printing of the same, fairly simple, low-color designs. 

Instead, check out the pin-lock system.  It uses carrier sheets and you can easily file those carriers, pop 'em back on the fresh screens and there you go.  Takes up way less space, your screens stay in rotation and are getting retensioned consistently.  If someone buys the 'extended warranty' break out the good film and take your time in pre-reg.  Your costs will be far lower here as well so you can actually reap some earnings from the 'ol warranty program. 

[Evo]

Gilligan, PM me an address, I'll send you a few pieces of 305 that will fit your Newmans so you can try it out. 305's on a manual are totally do-able with the right ink and seps, but the detail needs to warrant it.

[Catnhat]

We use 305's on a manual all the time.  Dark inks on light/white shirts is no problem.  Plus having 4 or 5 to run the occasional CMYK job is nice.    And being 6'4" 275lbs and using a push stroke doesn't hurt either.

[ScreenFoo]

I'm surprised no one (including me) has mentioned it, but start out with the lower mesh--save that 230 and 305 until you've done a couple dozen, retensioned them, and popped some.  Your checkbook will thank you. 

[Gilligan]

I'm surprised no one (including me) has mentioned it, but start out with the lower mesh--save that 230 and 305 until you've done a couple dozen, retensioned them, and popped some.  Your checkbook will thank you.

Noted, thanks!