Exposure unit recommendations.

[farmboygraphics]

Looking for recommendations on a solid unit.

[Admiral]

Zero problems with our Starlight.  Have had it for over 6 years.  We do not use the vacuum, use a CTS.  Results may be different with film and vacuum, but it's super fast exposing.

[Homer]

Zero problems with our Starlight.  Have had it for over 6 years.  We do not use the vacuum, use a CTS.  Results may be different with film and vacuum, but it's super fast exposing.

same. got ours maybe 10 years ago....still going

[Rockers]

Our Vastex unit is doing a great job. As well almost 10 years old. We did some modifications over the years that allowed us to hang it on the wall so it does not take up so much space in our screen room. Glass has been removed to in order to work with our Spyder.

[farmboygraphics]

So some context for this request (and something new to read on here).
After watching a few Youtube videos on sim process, which I've been doing a lot of this year I just wanted to see if there were improvements I could
be making. I've always tipped the coater back (sharp edge) and kinda sheared the emulsion, don't know why or when I started to do it.
So this last round I tipped the coater up to the angled edge and was surprised at how much more deposit there was. I also had just gotten
a 10 step exposure guide from chromaline to try cause I was curious and to be honest, lazy as I don't recall the last time I checked for
correct exposure. Everything has always washed out and held up during long runs, but I watched stuff and got ideas, you know how that goes.
According the the test strip and coating the "correct" way I was waaaay under exposed. So my knee jerk reaction was that I need a correct exposer unit.
For reference I've been using a single source 1500 watt bulb for the last 20 years (yes, I replace the bulb  ) At this point in the game I'm not sure I want to drop
6 to 8 grand on a new unit, I don't like to buy used. So I dropped in a new bulb and raised the light this morning. I'll see what happens. Ignorance is bliss, I probably should have just left it alone. 

[tonypep]

Just be sure whatever you buy has an integrader. It measures light units. Using time for exposure measurement is not as accurate.

[Atownsend]

Still running our OLEC. I see the advantages of LED, but everyone knows vinyl records sound better than CD's.

There are a few Olec setups on ebay right now pretty cheap. If you're not comfortable with a multi meter and effing around sometimes idk if i'd recommend it.

An auto coater of some kind will also really help you get more consistent expo. EOM needs to be consistent to be get best exposures imo. If you don't have an integrator on your existing setup that would probably do wonders if you can find a way to rig one up with a photocell. What unit are you running now? homebrew?

The saati single point is the way that i'd go if I was going to go led. They say you can run that with just a timer, but im skeptical that LEDS wont loose light output over time. I think the light itself is 2-3k but you still need to make a box and integrate a timer. You'd think some crafty guy would have made a esp32 / hmi setup for one of those already for a plug and play solution but i havent seen it.

[farmboygraphics]

For your viewing pleasure!
The light, piece of felt, the board under it and the 22 pound weight under that have been used since day one (23 years).
I got a bigger piece of glass and made the stand larger when I got the auto, over 10 years ago.
Not pretty, but it's got me by. I just want to do better, not that 98% of my customers would notice.
Edited: I zoomed in and looked at the fan, don't look at that 

[3Deep]

I almost bought a starlight, but an old buddy of mine showed me how to upgrade my Atlas Exposure unit with an LED light when I couldn't find bulbs for it anymore, cost me 150 bucks, so you might can get an older unit pretty cheap and convert it if your looking to save a few coins.

[mk162]

I may be old school but I prefer a single point light source, even if it's an LED bulb conversion.

We run a 7500w Amergraph we picked up for like $500. Check used places, and check industrial overstock companies like HGR.

[Atownsend]

Some good vacuum will help your setup a lot. Vac frames are out there still. Vacuum is a must if using positives. Will see a huge improvement just with that.

[Evo]

Used M&R MSP 3140 exposure units (and most any single point metal halide units) are going for next to nothing these days. If you are still on film these are fantastic units and you can dial in your exposure and lock it in with the built in integrator.

Don't shear the emulsion when coating! Consistent angle and speed are key. I would tilt in until max emulsion contact is made without pushing the ends of the coater into the mesh. Coat at the same rate on every stroke.

Do a step-wedge test for every emulsion/mesh combo. Print the step wedge *on the same exact film* you use for imaging. Forget the single exposure test with neutral density filters. Step wedging will give you more accuracy as the light passes through the same film you use every day.

They are easy to make. do a 1-2" wide strip of art with various font sizes and halftones, down as fine as you typically use. Repeat it 5-10 times across a film. Expose each strip at a fraction of the estimated exposure. (a large card or envelope to block the strips at each step)

So say a given exposure is a "minute". Do 6 exposures of 10 seconds. The exposure that holds detail without pinching it off is your friend. It should stand up to vigorous development, press use, and reclaim easy.

[brandon]

Get the Saati single point LED bulb. They have two versions, both are great and will more than do the job depending on your needs / half tones / amount of presses and so forth. Get the little digital timer they sell with it. For a couple of grand you will have top of the line single point LED system that you can install anywhere. As an example for a friend we took it into the employee bathroom and turned the lights off and exposed a CTS screen. You can build a box, put it on the wall, take the bulb out of your 3140 and put this one (not using the 3140's electrical, bypass that) and all sort of options. You will save around 6 or 7K instead of purchasing a Starlight and any Ryonet option

[farmboygraphics]

Used M&R MSP 3140 exposure units (and most any single point metal halide units) are going for next to nothing these days. If you are still on film these are fantastic units and you can dial in your exposure and lock it in with the built in integrator.

Just to make sure I'm looking at the correct model, these are 110 volt?

[bimmridder]

My Olec light is 208/230. Choose which you need on a toggle on power supply. I'm guessing you may not have that much power to spare?.
If you want to start going deeper, look at the emulsion you use to see what the optimum wave length is for exposure. I believe most are between 280 and 325 nm. Make sure your light peaks in that area. Olec has different lamps to meet your needs.

If you look around, you may find a used one for a good price. With an integrator is best. If you don't have the power, this is all a moot point

Dave