I-image S coming soon

[repogolfer]

Got a new toy coming and I'm psyching myself out worrying about how I'm going to do my separations.  I'm a corel draw guy and most of our stuff is spot colors and usually everything goes through accurip and it's quick and easy.   Will it be just as easy once I get this printer?   There isn't much info online regarding this.   

For complex stuff we usually run it through separation studio 4...which again is fairly easy.  I'm assuming this program probably will not work with this printer...so I'm worried because I'm horrible at photoshop.

Any corel guys out there and if so was it an easy transition?  Or is this old dog gonna have to learn some new programs.

Thanks for any feedback.

Jon

[Dottonedan]

I got you.

So, for corel, there is a specific few steps you have to go through.  It’s the same for Illustrator, but the procedures are in different areas an a td different.

M&R digital dept. Does have a pdf file step by step procedure (or at least they did).  There are not a lot of Corel users so it’s rare for them and may not have it at top of mind. May have to dig for it.

As far as your auto sep programs, you can still use those to do your “sepping” but will need to be saved as a dcs2 and dropped into a Corel template. Basically just like you do with AccuRip.

I f you need any help, shoot me an email or text me.  615-821-7850

[repogolfer]

Thanks Dan for the reply.

Do you remember if they gave you the instructions before the delivery or at delivery during setup?  Maybe I can just ask them for it in advance...so I can prepare myself.

I appreciate the help and I'm sure I'll need some help once it arrives.

Jon

[Homer]

corel here too, I print my seps as a PS file. Go to file, Print - look at your printer options, select "device independent postscript file"....open in your rip, send to DTS...


also - congrats on ditching film. I'd do shady things behind a dumpster at Big Lots before going back to film.....

[repogolfer]

I had to do shady things behind the dumpster at Big Lots to get it.

I'm going to copy your post...that seems pretty easy.

[brandon]

The most important thing with these units is keeping it moving. Weekends off are okay but no more than 3 days. Then always be aware of your environment with regards to humidity and temp. Between 73 and 82 degrees for us is perfect, and humidity around 60 percent. But we are on T6 ink so you will be different. Not sure what ink they are on now.

[Dottonedan]

The most important thing with these units is keeping it moving. Weekends off are okay but no more than 3 days. Then always be aware of your environment with regards to humidity and temp. Between 73 and 82 degrees for us is perfect, and humidity around 60 percent. But we are on T6 ink so you will be different. Not sure what ink they are on now.

That goes to show how different shops can need different settings.  I think T6 is where they landed as their go to install ink and continuously sell now. You can get others but have to ask for them. Some are good with what they are using and don’t want to introduce potential change over issues. I’ve seen shops with great results being at 35% RH and some with 60%RH.  Room temp is not (as important as is RH. But in general, you want to be at or above 60 degrees and below 90. And I’ve been in some at 90 degrees. You will find a balance and your screen room with benefit overall in other areas of the process  for being controlled.

I just changed out a print head last weekend for a shop that had been on their first head all along. I installed it in 2016. Even then, the head was not bad. It was just time to replace. Eventually it would go bad and I was available so we replaced it.

Technically, You can leave the machine on all of the time, night and day and leave for a wk if you want. It does auto spits of ink every so often when idle to keep it primed. Just come back and be sure to do a nozzle check when you come back and clear out any issues.

It’s important to really learn HOW to and be comfortable and confident in doing the flush and purges. Flush ink and cleaning solution and purge air out of the lines if any ever creep in over time. Pretty simple when you learn how. This is key to a long print head life.  The same gal ran this shops machine and she does her maintenance on a regularly scheduled basis as is described in the machine’s book.

[mk162]

corel here too, I print my seps as a PS file. Go to file, Print - look at your printer options, select "device independent postscript file"....open in your rip, send to DTS...


also - congrats on ditching film. I'd do shady things behind a dumpster at Big Lots before going back to film.....

Like what kinds of things?  Asking for friend.

[inkman996]

May not help but I am Corel with an I Image.

I am different than most because I sep everything manually. I do not use any programs or built in settings. Every plate is on its own page and when I want to send to I Image I hit print, select Device Independent Post script File. Make sure print to file is selected and Pages to Separate Files. I choose a shared folder used between my PC and the I Image. This sends individual .ps files to that folder which they are then dropped into the appropriate folder for ripping. I have multiple folders set up for different halftone settings.

[blue moon]

corel here too, I print my seps as a PS file. Go to file, Print - look at your printer options, select "device independent postscript file"....open in your rip, send to DTS...


also - congrats on ditching film. I'd do shady things behind a dumpster at Big Lots before going back to film.....

Like what kinds of things?  Asking for friend.

I don't have any friends, but my second cousin wants to know too!
pj

[repogolfer]

LOL...

Sometimes it's best to just keep things to yourself when it comes to this sorta thing....otherwise I'd lose any respect I have left.  Living in California I'm already looked down upon...LOL.

[blue moon]

LOL...

Sometimes it's best to just keep things to yourself when it comes to this sorta thing....otherwise I'd lose any respect I have left.  Living in California I'm already looked down upon...LOL.

Dont worry about the respect! You will be a screenprinter with DTS! That right there and $10 will buy you a cup of Starbucks coffee* and make you immensely popular and wildly respected!

pierre
*except in California

[CBCB]

I’ve seen shops with great results being at 35% RH and some with 60%RH.  Room temp is not (as important as is RH. But in general, you want to be at or above 60 degrees and below 90. And I’ve been in some at 90 degrees.

FYI temperature is directly related to relative humidity. Consistent temp is key to consistent RH.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dottonedan]

I’ve seen shops with great results being at 35% RH and some with 60%RH.  Room temp is not (as important as is RH. But in general, you want to be at or above 60 degrees and below 90. And I’ve been in some at 90 degrees.

FYI temperature is directly related to relative humidity. Consistent temp is key to consistent RH.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t know about all that but a quick Google gives us this.


“ The relation between humidity and temperature formula simply says they are inversely proportional. If temperature increases it will lead to a decrease in relative humidity, thus the air will become drier whereas when temperature decreases, the air will become wet means the relative humidity will increase.”

So yes. Consistency of course balances it out somewhere.  Harder for some areas of the US. Florida can quickly change its humidity multiple times in the same 8 hrs shift. I had one customer in Fl days after a tropical storm rolled through that left the screen rm above 65% RH while it was also 55-60 degrees in the room. No ac/no heat. Cold and wet. That shop ended up working much better once we got the moisture out of the air but the temp stayed the same.