4 color process w/ DC UB

[tonypep]

Back doing it in spades. Currently with our own brands and preprint lines for our stores so we control the blanks. Stampinator changing the game nicely. No running around with mist bottles and that craziness. Formula is my own so I can control the viscosity and retard as necessary. Screens totally sealed, no reg marks (using the reg pallet/LTS) so no worries about leaks etc. Made it easy for everyone. 
Prints not soft of course but cleaner and more vibrant color when necessary. Less dot gain (UB screens range from 230-280 mesh). They are learning (after proper instruction and practice, that its actually a bit easier than a plastisol base.
Fun stuff pics later.

[tonypep]

(are soft) not (not soft)

[screenxpress]

Ya know you can "MODIFY" your posts, right?

Unfortunately you cannot delete one 

[bimmridder]

Tony is as old as I am. Cut us a break, man.    (at least I figured out how to put the smiley face thingy in)

[tonypep]

Unfortunately neither can you JK! This was not meant to be a boast post but rather to stir some interest and, if there is, than share some more on how to do it. Small niche app I suppose but much more fun than the usual day to day clipart logos etc for those markets whom, while very important, are a tad boring. That said I thought it would be nice share some creative success on this site however it has mostly devolved into a " Where to find blanks/fonts and who is the new VP of XYZ company" forum. Perhaps it is time for me to fade to black here as others have.
Best wishes to all and remember above all.....screenprinting is easy TP
Not MODIFYING btw

[Admiral]

I loved the couple of prints I did with a discharge UB + CMYK plastisol on top.  Unfortunately we just don't do much water based printing and it makes no sense to try to train that at the moment.

I do remember the red changing to orange (too much activator or too much ink going down was the problem if I remember correctly).  Funny how it changed the color of some inks!

[Rockers]

I loved the couple of prints I did with a discharge UB + CMYK plastisol on top.  Unfortunately we just don't do much water based printing and it makes no sense to try to train that at the moment.

I do remember the red changing to orange (too much activator or too much ink going down was the problem if I remember correctly).  Funny how it changed the color of some inks!

We recently did some 4 color process prints on black tees. Plastisol underbase was a fail. The DC underbase made the print look a lot better. But what made it look as good as a 4 color process on a white tee, if not better, was a Magna Colour Aquaflex white underbase. It looked a lot better then the same print using a DC underbase.

[Rockers]

Stampinator changing the game nicely.

How does the Stampinator change the game in terms of printing this particular job? I`m keen to learn as we are considering getting a similar product to the Stampinator, just from a different manufacturer.

[tonypep]

OK I'll bite. Experimenting with pre-op and post op stampinator. The pre-op helps with stamping down fibers after flash. This can occur depending on the fabric and rheological properties of the DC/UB or a combination of both. That can be controlled in other ways, however the end goal is to minimize tinkering. Standard flashing can be finicky and a major mistake is to over flash. Depending on ink deposit/penetration over flashing can create steaming which result in the fabric prematurely releasing from the platen adhesive. Stamping down the fibers without achieving a full UB cure is the goal. The rest of the magic should occur in the dryer chamber. End result is a super smooth flat canvass on which to finish the print. Side note: since many of these are replicas from original paintings (non computer generated) I use Union Tru-tone process colors in order to achieve the widest range of hue and value.

[screenxpress]

Tony is as old as I am. Cut us a break, man.    (at least I figured out how to put the smiley face thingy in)

LOL, well.......I'm pretty sure I have y'all beat in the old department.  Last August turned 79.  Printing these days is mostly for fun and hobby.  Did I actually say fun?

[BRGtshirts]

OK I'll bite. Experimenting with pre-op and post op stampinator. The pre-op helps with stamping down fibers after flash. This can occur depending on the fabric and rheological properties of the DC/UB or a combination of both. That can be controlled in other ways, however the end goal is to minimize tinkering. Standard flashing can be finicky and a major mistake is to over flash. Depending on ink deposit/penetration over flashing can create steaming which result in the fabric prematurely releasing from the platen adhesive. Stamping down the fibers without achieving a full UB cure is the goal. The rest of the magic should occur in the dryer chamber. End result is a super smooth flat canvass on which to finish the print. Side note: since many of these are replicas from original paintings (non computer generated) I use Union Tru-tone process colors in order to achieve the widest range of hue and value.

Very cool to hear. You using more of a DC base or actual white pigmented DC to make the tbe UB?
Also, I thought I heard/read Tru-Tone inks has been discontinued. I tried to buy some a while back and couldn’t find them anywhere


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Orion]

Looking forward to seeing what Tony has been working on.

I don't dabble in 4 color process these days but when I did it was with Tru-Tone and it is being discontinued.  Avient is pushing this...

https://www.avientspecialtyinks.com/sites/default/files/2022-09/INFINITE%20FX%20PROCESS%20COLORS_ENG_V1.57.pdf

[cbjamel]

ugh being discontinued..  I have used tru-tone for almost 20 years...


Shane

[tonypep]

That will probably work whenever we run out...have a few 5s left. Color may shift a bit, but the cheaper versions are not using the same pigs and prints can be a bit duller with less range.

[Admiral]

OK I'll bite. Experimenting with pre-op and post op stampinator. The pre-op helps with stamping down fibers after flash. This can occur depending on the fabric and rheological properties of the DC/UB or a combination of both. That can be controlled in other ways, however the end goal is to minimize tinkering. Standard flashing can be finicky and a major mistake is to over flash. Depending on ink deposit/penetration over flashing can create steaming which result in the fabric prematurely releasing from the platen adhesive. Stamping down the fibers without achieving a full UB cure is the goal. The rest of the magic should occur in the dryer chamber. End result is a super smooth flat canvass on which to finish the print. Side note: since many of these are replicas from original paintings (non computer generated) I use Union Tru-tone process colors in order to achieve the widest range of hue and value.

Very cool to hear. You using more of a DC base or actual white pigmented DC to make the tbe UB?
Also, I thought I heard/read Tru-Tone inks has been discontinued. I tried to buy some a while back and couldn’t find them anywhere


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We used the Union Tru-Tone as well (triple strength) and them being discontinued stinks.  I think we have to give up 4CP printing and stick to our DTF transfers, at least up to 200 or 250 prints...