Can I use a small dryer for Discharge?

[Dottonedan]

I’d like to start doing mostly discharge bases and plastisol on top. But I’m afraid that our dryer length won’t allow ro that.
We have a small BROWN dryer. 4’in, 6’chamber (48”wide) ...3’out.


I’ve only read (by more professional people like Guru’s) that it needs larger dryers to allow time to turn in the dryer but I’ve heard some Facebook people talk about using their smaller dryers.  What’s the skinny on that?


Anyone doing discharge using smaller dryers?

[Frog]

Does it have air? Makes a big difference as waterbased inks need to evaporate to cure.

[ebscreen]

You certainly can, but it isn't ideal. Assuming it is electric, does it at least have forced air?
I used to run discharge on a Maxi-Cure with (I think) an 8' chamber. With the heat turned down to avoid scorching,
and the belt at it's slowest it would completely discharge most jobs in one pass through.
Some would require a second trip through. You aren't keeping up with an auto at any reasonable rate.

[rusty]

yes. I have done it with a small vastex dryer. depends on how many you are doing but flash the final print for up to 6-8 seconds before running through the dryer. Make sure shirt is as flat as possible and run dryer as slow as you can. Flashing helps with timing/rhythm.

If you don't have a flash you can run the shirts through twice even if you have to wait 20-30 m inutes I have done it. I have had to run shirts through twice cause a fold kept a certain area from discharging

I used matsui ink for this and highly recommend that ink and using the retardent they have for the discharge - the exact name item # escape me at the moment

make sure you have plenty of ventilation

none of this is ideal but you can get it done

[tonypep]

The technique is more about the flash/cure of the underbase. Once that is dialed in, I would slow the dryer speed down and wash test be sure there is proper adhesion.
.

[CBCB]

The technique is more about the flash/cure of the underbase. Once that is dialed in, I would slow the dryer speed down and wash test be sure there is proper adhesion.
.

And avoid adding softener/silicon like part of what’s in Matsui Quick Additive. That will kill the adhesion, ask me how I know haha

[screenxpress]

I have with a Vastex Econored 2 panel chamber and a crawl speed.  Not something you want to do a big order on.  I do usually run a second time (just to be absolutely sure) and they wash fine.  Watching paint dry is about as much fun.

[Dottonedan]

I have with a Vastex Econored 2 panel chamber and a crawl speed.  Not something you want to do a big order on.  I do usually run a second time (just to be absolutely sure) and they wash fine.  Watching paint dry is about as much fun.

Well, that kinda reminds me of why I haven't been too interested here at this shop. LOL.  I'd hate that.

[Dottonedan]

You certainly can, but it isn't ideal. Assuming it is electric, does it at least have forced air?
I used to run discharge on a Maxi-Cure with (I think) an 8' chamber. With the heat turned down to avoid scorching,
and the belt at it's slowest it would completely discharge most jobs in one pass through.
Some would require a second trip through. You aren't keeping up with an auto at any reasonable rate.

Yes, forced air.  Bummer on the auto subject. I guess I'll wait till we get in the larger shop that has the 18 color setup and the huge dryer. (one day). Still waiting on completing the move.

[ebscreen]

It's certainly worth dabbling in if you have the time and machine availability. I didn't mean to dissuade.
Learn the ins and outs beforehand and you'll be set for the big time when you move.

I also wanted to add that just because a print *appears* completely discharged does not mean it necessarily
is. Wash testing like Tony mentioned is the litmus test.

[screenxpress]

I also wanted to add that just because a print *appears* completely discharged does not mean it necessarily
is. Wash testing like Tony mentioned is the litmus test.

Just curious.  I find washing is almost a necessity as the prints do not have the "soft feel" out of the dryer.  Almost a "slight crusty" feel.  Following a wash they develop the "soft feel" I was looking for.  That sound normal? 

[ebscreen]

Just curious.  I find washing is almost a necessity as the prints do not have the "soft feel" out of the dryer.  Almost a "slight crusty" feel.  Following a wash they develop the "soft feel" I was looking for.  That sound normal?

It can. Technique and additives (softeners/penetrants/even water) can help. Whites can be cut with base if full pigment load isn't needed.

I do recall the electric dryer being worse at this than gas, but it's been ten years so don't quote me.

[screenxpress]

Just curious.  I find washing is almost a necessity as the prints do not have the "soft feel" out of the dryer.  Almost a "slight crusty" feel.  Following a wash they develop the "soft feel" I was looking for.  That sound normal?

It can. Technique and additives (softeners/penetrants/even water) can help. Whites can be cut with base if full pigment load isn't needed.

I do recall the electric dryer being worse at this than gas, but it's been ten years so don't quote me.

You probably hit the nail on the head.  My limited discharge efforts have been done with only Discharge White and required a full load. 

Tks

[tonypep]

My recipe for DC/UB has been 80% base and 20% DC white (not white pc!) Yes, it has been offered now by many ink suppliers as a pre-mix. But white DC out of the bucket is not recommended as a base for plastisol. Too many fillers. Poor adhesion and chalky hand. Flash till the base just starts to turn. Thats my advice based on experience.

[Dottonedan]

Thanks all!