hoodies shifting

[Admiral]

If you have an extra flash available, preflash the garment, that should help with registration.  Then only flash high enough to dry the ink and allow plenty of cool down before the next screens.

We preflash most dark hoodies with big prints.

[InkSplash]

CCI top mist has been the only thing we’ve found that works well with hoods for us for tack and can actually maintain somewhat decent speed.

[darkbosque_]

All these are good pointers. I personally use cci thick bond for a base layer and web tac the rest of the run. Also putting a little Finesse or reducer in your white will def help with getting in through the screen with one stroke. But what is your off contact like? Depending on what brand and style hoodie your running the hoodie could be to thick for the off contact settings your running with. The screen needs to snap off the garment. Our typical mesh for hoodie underlays depending on detail are 110s 135s

[Raw Paw]

Doing a roller screen before printing has helped us a ton.  We've been getting fleece jobs in the 60 - 120 piece range, which isn't enough for me to justify using web spray and needing to replace the pallet tape, especially not every week or multiple times a week.  We have been getting awesome results using the waterbased textac glue, combined with the roller, and scrubbing the pallets every 2 or 3 rotations.  Would much rather spend the time scrubbing than replacing pallet tape.  Trying to limit hoodie jobs to one flash total, because we run into way more issues trying to flash the ink twice.  Haven't experimented much with the flash - roll - underbase, but will try this next, as I could see it really helping to pre-shrink the hoodies with poly cotton prior to printing. 

Also off contact is generally raised 1mm from your standard t-shirt off contact.

[whitewater]

Unless the heat breaking down the wrong adhesive turns out to be your issue, as for the pressure needed to clear the white, what mesh are you using? Could too fine of a mesh be adding to the need for increased pressure?
Also, in the old days, when I was starting out, Union's advice was to base it down a bit (though counterintuitive for opacity) if that's what it took to clear the screen.

I use all different meshes according to the job. My press is one of the first diamondbacks and I have never been able to get it to print white without double stroke and a lot of pressure. I am not sure why. I can take the same screen over to the manual and print with very little effort... I have to double stroke most inks at what I would call high pressure (30+psi).

same here... always have to double stroke the white. We have tried everything throughout the years not to.  Diamondback here too. When we first got it, they said 30-40 psi...no way in hell.LOL

[Raw Paw]

Have you tried printing through 158 thin thread for an underbase?  Can clear quick white through that 1 hit, no problem.  PSI 45-50, soft squeegee on a roq (aluminum pallets)