DTF

[Maxie]

After much research into DTF I decided to go with a Mutoh printer sold by STS in Florida.
I have yet to hear of a Chinese made printer that is reliable, a lot of people spent a lot of money and got burnt.
Colors are not accurate, the heads don't register so most of the time you see the white under base on one side of the print.
Most of the Chinese made printers you cannot leave printing, you have to keep checking for problems with the white head.
Advantages of Mutoh:
It's based on a Japanese printer model 628 that has been around a while.
Very reliable and because it only has one head is very accurate, you don't see the white under base.
This is also a disadvantage because it is slow, I printed a 10X12" print with the white set at 100% and it takes 2.5 minutes per print.
The RIP program SAI 21 is amazing, has some great features like adjustable choke, background removal, adjustable white layer. (I don't know anything about other DTF rips)
STS are color manufacturers, the advertise Color is our DNA and it's true, the color profile of the Mutoh/STS is great, I sent a image to a Chinese supplier and there is no comparison.
Set up was easy online with techs based in Florida who spoke English.
At the moment I do not have a Shaker, STS sell a Chinese made shaker that they modify.      I apply the powder by hand in a plastic tray and put the film through a small Ranar IR dryer , this works really well but is time consuming if you do big runs.     With a big print I cut after 4 images and put the film through the dryer.      STS also sell a small sheet dryer for under $1000.
I'm going to FESPA and will decide which shaker to get there.
We are high end printers who charge a lot so we needed a high quality DTF printer with accurate colors.       
For about $9600 you can get a Mutoh printer with inks and film, this is with bulk inks not cassettes.
With the tests we'd done washablity is great, prints feels a bit too much like a transfer and is too shiny but a short second hit with silicone sheet or paper on top on the image fixes this.     
I have attached a photograph of a test I did:
1 Printed on Mutoh with white increased to 100%
2 Printed on high end Kornit DTG
3 Printed on Mutoh with white set to 85%.       

[Homer]

I bought the same set up however mine is sitting on a pallet waiting to go back to STS for repairs because the print head is shot which fried the motherboard too....I spent 3 days trying to unclog the print head. Nothing worked. The positives are STS is repairing it all and covering all expenses. Problem is I am down for a while.

PRO TIP: when you think you are getting close to the end of the roll, STOP printing, change the roll. They used packing tape to secure the film to the core. This can cause catastrophic failures...

[GoWestRob]

Thanks for the comparison pics.  Hope the unit works out for you!

[Admiral]

Thanks for the info.

It's odd to me STS sells a Mutoh DTF printer and not Coldesi (who sells Mutoh UV printers).  The speed part kills it for me, I think it may be worth waiting for an updated machine that is better.

[Rockers]

Thanks for the info.

It's odd to me STS sells a Mutoh DTF printer and not Coldesi (who sells Mutoh UV printers).  The speed part kills it for me, I think it may be worth waiting for an updated machine that is better.

I saw that printer at a local trade show here in Osaka, I cannot recall it printed as slow as described above.

[Maxie]

I understand that STS are the world agents for the Mutoh 628 with DTF inks, they made modifications so it will print DTF inks.   Problem is Mutoh can't keep up and there are back orders.
They are working on a printer with 2 heads and it will be wider as well but also much more expensive, sounds like it will good for people offering DTF printing services.
My printing is very slow because I have pushed the white ink up to 100%, gives me a better print but is slower.    They say most people don't do this.     You can see the sample in my post of 85% white.    If you print for white shirts and have the Light Cyan and Light Magenta inks in then you don't need to print white and it's much faster.     I was told that printers without the Light C and M they white to create these colors or blends.     The Chinese printers or the inks can't be used on white shirts without the white base.        I had an order for 60 white shirts last week and got a great result, hard to see the difference between some I did with a white base and most without, without obviously have a softer feel.
Most of our DTF work is small images, lots of hats and pocket size prints.       We also are taking orders for small runs that we used to turn down.      We charge a lot more but have a lot of requests for say 20 shirts with a 4 color front and back.     We wouldn't do this silk screen, with DTF its a piece of cake and very profitable.
I have a friend who closed his printing down and does everything DTF.

[3Deep]

 We also are taking orders for small runs that we used to turn down.

this is what we got our DTF for and it's paid off, we print something just about everyday

[rusty]

how long do DTF prints last? a few dozen washes?

[Homer]

how long do DTF prints last? a few dozen washes?

I beat the living piss outta some prints from two years ago, the print is holding up better than the shirt. If it didn't feel so "crinkly", it'd be the way to go. I made myself some shirts with 12"x 18" solid 100% fills and they are...weird... I wouldn't want to sell it, it's noisy too. It does not have a soft hand. -but -we mainly do odd prints, hats, pant legs, bags, stuff like that. Opens the doors on what we offer. Can't live without it, honestly.

[rusty]

Great. Thanks for the info. Def. looking into it and appreciate every one doing the testing and legwork!

[ericheartsu]

if you all are seriously getting into DTF, i'd also recommend checking out these heat presses we launched. We built them for inner neck labels, and then realized they work really well for DTF transfers.

www.eastwestmachines.com

[3Deep]

how long do DTF prints last? a few dozen washes?

I beat the living piss outta some prints from two years ago, the print is holding up better than the shirt. If it didn't feel so "crinkly", it'd be the way to go. I made myself some shirts with 12"x 18" solid 100% fills and they are...weird... I wouldn't want to sell it, it's noisy too. It does not have a soft hand. -but -we mainly do odd prints, hats, pant legs, bags, stuff like that. Opens the doors on what we offer. Can't live without it, honestly.

Like you Homer, I don't like the feel of a solid white base DTF print, I did a 12 x 17 halftone print and the hand is really soft like a waterbase print, kind of blew me away how nice it was,  not all art we do good halftoned so that's a draw back, but I've learned how to use less white base and still get a softer print and I've taken some old 80 mesh and used it to do a second press with firm pressure, gives it a nice texture and feel.

[Frog]

I've taken some old 80 mesh and used it to do a second press with firm pressure, gives it a nice texture and feel.

I was given the advice to use a piece of pique fabric over the print on a second pressing to add texture.

[Maxie]

I've been giving a 5 second, second press with either a grey silicone sheet I have or paper I used for sublimation.   Both work, besides giving the print a softer hand it takes away the shine.
I contacted STS today, they are already selling a 60" wide Mutoh with 2 heads.     For big volume sounds great.    Problem with these printers they are not producing them fast enough.     

[DonR]

I've taken some old 80 mesh and used it to do a second press with firm pressure, gives it a nice texture and feel.

I was given the advice to use a piece of pique fabric over the print on a second pressing to add texture.

Pique fabric from a polo shirt works great!