Video - How to make a Newman Roller frame in 10 minutes or less.

[ZooCity]

I believe the "n" after the 200 denotes roller mesh.

?:  Do you get the same effect taking the roller mesh up higher?  Like if you stretched to 55n would it relax to 50 or way down to 36 again?

I ask because I personally found the roller mesh to lose way more tension by % at the higher tensions.   

This is pretty darn good for 4 cycles!  I watched your video and was thinking "WTF is the matter with this guy only leaving it on the table for that long"?  But it looks like the mission's accomplished, if mid-thirties was in fact the goal. 

I've found roller mesh to be the only stuff that you can crank way the eff up straightaway without major damage going on.  Then again, there could be unseen damage on a microscopic level to the threads but I'm sure Mr. Newman looked into that already regarding his mesh. 

[jsheridan]

What kind of mesh is it?

Nittoku Smartmesh-P 200/48 with a target tension of 35. This screen just so happened to hit it perfect and I remembered this thread so had to snap a pic. The rest of the bunch were off target by 3-8n's.

The 'n' denotes typo 
After taken to 55 you will get drop but not down to 36. The higher counts do elongate more on initial tension as the thread is thinner and require offset indexing to help take up slack on the warp threads.

I'm pretty impressed with this mesh so far. It's supposed to have a memory and not lose large amounts of tension in the first few runs. It's looks to be working. With many of the screens I've made in the last few months now stabilizing, I'm noticing minute tension drops across all thread counts which for a busy screen maker, it's heavenly to have more time doing other things.

[shurloc]

@zoocity - you DEFINITELY do not want to take a Murakami S thread to 55N. The S threads will not take that much tension. Even the 40N that j took them too is outside the recommended tension range of the 200/48. The 200/48 mesh is recommended to go to a max of 37N - which should relax down to 32-34N (usually 10-15% drop) - and should remain stable at that tension as long as your off contact is minimal and your squeegee pressure is a bit lighter. You should find yourself lightening up on the pressure as the larger openings allows more ink through with less effort.

The entire line of S threads offers some amazing performance, but watch the tension levels as they are much more vulnerable. Now for the truly adventurous souls, make sure to check out the LX mesh... The knuckle-less design on that stuff is just WILD!

[ZooCity]

@zoocity - you DEFINITELY do not want to take a Murakami S thread to 55N. The S threads will not take that much tension. Even the 40N that j took them too is outside the recommended tension range of the 200/48. The 200/48 mesh is recommended to go to a max of 37N - which should relax down to 32-34N (usually 10-15% drop) - and should remain stable at that tension as long as your off contact is minimal and your squeegee pressure is a bit lighter. You should find yourself lightening up on the pressure as the larger openings allows more ink through with less effort.

The entire line of S threads offers some amazing performance, but watch the tension levels as they are much more vulnerable. Now for the truly adventurous souls, make sure to check out the LX mesh... The knuckle-less design on that stuff is just WILD!

Yessir, you are correct.  We are not taking our S and LX over Murakami's recommendation.  I was referring to our prior use of Newman Roller Mesh which does indeed go to those tensions with ease. 

I'm surprised that John gets those sort of results with such a brief tensioning time.  We have not experienced this.  If we tensioned a screen for just a moment like that it would relax down significantly before it even made it on-press. 
I will give it a try next time I tension though I do firmly believe in staging the mesh up and relaxing (this can be done quickly) in order to "seat" hand-loaded bolt mesh in the channel and prevent blowouts down the road.  Kinda like installing an innertube on a bike.

We stage tension the S and LX mesh and it's now all we use.  I do go just a touch over recommended max to account for the mesh relaxing but only 2-4 newtons at most.  Much of our stock is currently Shur-loc panels you all custom built for our 25x30 M3 frames. 

[Gilligan]

Looking to start using my rollers finally.

Zoo... when you say like a bike tube, do you mean that with mesh you take them up and then back off and lock them down or do you just mean letting them relax while being locked down and re-tensioning. (like most videos show.)

[ZooCity]

Looking to start using my rollers finally.

Zoo... when you say like a bike tube, do you mean that with mesh you take them up and then back off and lock them down or do you just mean letting them relax while being locked down and re-tensioning. (like most videos show.)

That's regarding loading your own mesh with lock strips.  You want to "seat" it in the channel properly before going up to tension.  If the mesh was crinkled in there it would severely weaken the screen if not just pop it on the table. This also give you a preview of how accurate your corner softening was if using a new mesh/tension.  You can always adjust the corners after taking the tension off and re-stretch.  What I meant by the {not too accurate} analogy is, if you loaded a new innertube in you bike tire and just blasted it full to 55psi in a matter of seconds you would probably get a pinch flat unless the tube was in there perfect.  You put some air in, check that all's well, let some out and then go on filling it all the way. 

Otherwise I build my screens just like in John's video or anyone elses.  What I don't do is crank them all the way up and pull them off the table after a minute.  I go up, down, up higher, down and then all the way up and hold for as long as possible.  Sometimes I skip the middle pulse.  With a table you can be loading your next screen while the previous one hangs out on the roller master, there's just no reason to yank them off the roller master after just a few moments of tensioning, the extra time on there can only help.

On M3 frames, the tension will jump again when you tighten the bolts by around 2-6 n/cm at the lower/middling tensions and more at higher tensions.   I use a roller master and always have so I can't offer much help on doing it manually with the wrench, we don't even have one in the shop.  If you're going at it sans-roller master then yeah, I would assume your going to tension, tighten bolts to hold, tension, loosen bolts, tension, repeat, wait, etc.  Stretch Devices makes an excellent manual for this.