Peeling DTF Transfers

[Frog]

Okay, be honest. Who's ruined one by peeling too soon while still too warm? 
I've developed a new system to keep me more honest by pressing a few and then going back to peel and re-press.

[Homer]

we take them from the hot press right to a cold one and press it. The cold platen sucks that heat out in seconds so you can peel  / move faster. We are pressing a second time for 5-6 seconds on some items just because we are used to doing that with screened transfers. I have a few carhartts and rain coats with DTF full backs and I am beating the living piss out of them to try and make them fail. so far so good.

And yes, I pulled early once or twice....

shut up Rob...

[Frog]

we take them from the hot press right to a cold one and press it. The cold platen sucks that heat out in seconds so you can peel  / move faster. We are pressing a second time for 5-6 seconds on some items just because we are used to doing that with screened transfers. I have a few carhartts and rain coats with DTF full backs and I am beating the living piss out of them to try and make them fail. so far so good.

And yes, I pulled early once or twice....

shut up Rob...

I keep them in place with Stahl's blue heat tape, and find it leaves a little ghost that then disappears with the second pressing

[3Deep]

We've pulled some warm and some we've pressed and just pull then the next day, no problems so far, but now that I say this I'll screw something tomorrow

[Sbrem]

Been there, done that, but that's the learning curve. I just did some from TPRNT, and they came out really good at the recommended temp and pressure, 3 second initial press to get rid of moisture, 12 seconds at 310°, let it cool to room temp (or body temp seems OK too) then gave them the second press, which actually seemed to make them softer. But on a couple of jobs I needed to do some testing. The "boss" at Supacolor called and helped me dial it in on a problematic drawstring backpack. I've taken to order a few extras to test with. This is making a lot of customers pretty happy, no complaints on the "hand" at all. This seasoned and proud screen printer is selling a lot of transfers of late, as it gives the customers what they want.

Steve

[DonR]

Steve - Good to hear you are getting good results...  Frog - Let me know if you need any help or a few more samples to test different times & temps.

[Frog]

Steve - Good to hear you are getting good results...  Frog - Let me know if you need any help or a few more samples to test different times & temps.

Just finishing up that second job, and it's working pretty smoothly. I'm pressing for 12, letting it cool, peeling, and pressing with a cover sheet another 8 or so. btw, the second pressing also gets rid of what initially looked like spitting, excess adhesive or ink.
I only wish you were closer.

[Frog]

We've pulled some warm and some we've pressed and just pull then the next day, no problems so far, but now that I say this I'll screw something tomorrow

Watch out. If too warm, the ink has not re-solidified and you'll pull it apart.

[mikee440]

I initially had issues with sticky corners, but have since been using the craft / silicone paper with great results.  I have rarely felt I needed a repress, but to make sure things are 100% I press, peel and then pop the sheet back and do a quick squeegee.  6 months later my contractors shirts are still holding up well

[brandon]

This seasoned and proud screen printer is selling a lot of transfers of late, as it gives the customers what they want.

Steve

Exactly. Same for us. Just because we can print a 5 or 6 color hsa print on 18 poly gym shorts doesn't mean you should. The product and pricing is great.

[3Deep]

So can someone who has done this tell me the difference in repressing with the craft paper vs the teflon/silicone sheet?,  I heard one makes the transfer shinny the other matte finish.

[Frog]

So can someone who has done this tell me the difference in repressing with the craft paper vs the teflon/silicone sheet?,  I heard one makes the transfer shinny the other matte finish.

With almost all heat seal that I have ever dealt with teflon sheet has produced a shinier look (though originally described as "the more screen-printed look), while kraft paper more matte. I often use baking parchment, and in fact, just did so on my last DTF job.
btw, years ago, Diane at Color Your World and I bonded over using texture sheets on vinyl. Similar to what is used on upholstery repair, the textured sheets impart the texture to the heat-softened plastic decoration materials.

[Sbrem]

I've been using baking parchment for the second press, it keeps it matte, and as someone else mentioned seems to make the adhesive flashing (for lack of a better term) disappear.

Steve

[mooseman]

Ok I am confused...what kind of transfers sre we talking about here snd where do you get them ?
Thanks
mooseman

[DonR]

We are talking about DTF transfers. Which stands for "Direct To Film" or "Digital To Film" depending on who you ask. We started working with them about 1 year ago and offer them to the trade only at www.tprnt.com. There are other companies that also offer them. You can also modify some Epson desktop printers to produce them.

I would like to thank the members of this group for support and feedback that they have given me. The state of the art for these transfers is changing very quickly. I think you will all be excited about what will be possible in the near feature.