Killer base?

[3Deep]

Question, today I setup a print and got sidetracked and came back to start the printing and the killer base white and clogged the screen up, tried cleaning it out but no luck,  I was using a 180 mesh, wondering did that have something to do with it or what steps did I miss using this ink for a base white.  I've used it before, but once I started printing I never stopped until the job was done, this ink kind of remind me of waterbase inks drying in the screen, oh and my base screen has halftones 50lpi which I didn't think was a problem, I know some of you have some good advice for me Thanks

[screenprintguy]

Hey D! I actually just had a phone convo with Ivan from Magna about some of their inks. He was telling me that killer base would be used best as a base layer to knock down fibrillation and with that using a 150/48 as your highest mesh-count would be good, but even go lower if you want to. I haven't used killer base yet, but I'm supposed to have some come in this week. We are using a lot of V2 white, fusion white and clear top  all for the DS prints, but he was mentioning using the killer base under our ub white for plastisol prints, printing the ub white in a way higher mesh count for softer prints. I'll give it a try and see. I can connect you with him if you'd like.

[3Deep]

I just went on there site and read some info about the killer base white that I thought I already knew, I know now you have to treat it like a water base ink and keep your screens flooded, that's the part I forgot about, but yea it does provide a very smooth surface for your top colors.

[Maff]

It's definitely waterbased ink and it will dry in the screen if left sitting for too long, even at lower mesh counts, especially if humidity is low in your shop.  Once you put it on the screen you should keep moving until the job is done. If you have to stop for a while, you can clear the screen and wipe it down with a wet rag.  We tried it out a handful of times, but never felt like the end result was much better than our  plastisol prints, plus it really needs to dry at regular waterbase time and temps.

[Maff]

I just went on there site and read some info about the killer base white that I thought I already knew, I know now you have to treat it like a water base ink and keep your screens flooded, that's the part I forgot about, but yea it does provide a very smooth surface for your top colors.

It can dry even if the screen is flooded if it sits for too long. This time of year we have about 15% humidity in our shop so we are always on guard when printing waterbase jobs.  That's also why you'll see some shops using the foggers on press, keeps the ink moving nice.

[3Deep]

I just went on there site and read some info about the killer base white that I thought I already knew, I know now you have to treat it like a water base ink and keep your screens flooded, that's the part I forgot about, but yea it does provide a very smooth surface for your top colors.

It can dry even if the screen is flooded if it sits for too long. This time of year we have about 15% humidity in our shop so we are always on guard when printing waterbase jobs.  That's also why you'll see some shops using the foggers on press, keeps the ink moving nice.

you want to know whats funny, I started out many years ago with water base inks, until I found plastisol and it made me lazy LOL  Yep Maff your so right you have to keep the ink moving which I just forgot today, cause me a reburn screen and down time, guess that's why I like plastisol it kind of forgiving.