Printing a neck tags on Tri-Blends...and ink coming through

[Dottonedan]

First, let me say, I apologize for asking this. We can print any other job on a tri-blend with no ink getting pushed through the shirt... and all of a sudden, we can’t print a neck tag without the ink coming through?  He’s printing these manually. I guess it’s a hassle to print neck tags on our auto.

What do you all do to NOT get the ink to come through the thin shirts?   Do you just hit it once and accept the quality of that fist print?

P.S.  We are also using a Medium grey. PMS 430

[Frog]

Less pressure?
Two hits but with a flash in-between?

[rusty]

we always suggest a gray like cool gray 5 so its not visible from the other side.

a bright white is a headache.

O once had to put a thin black as a base and then print a white and red tag on top so it wouldnt show throuw. Was too big for transfers and client wouldn't budge.  Fashion

 Worked out in the end.

[Dottonedan]

Great ideas!  Somehow, as unexperienced as I am at actually printing, I can hit it twice with not ink coming through. Then, I had our new Op Mgr give it a shot and he got it looking better than mine.


I hit it once (with a flood) on the manual and it was a bit wonky. Not coming through, but wasn’t a clean looking print either.


Then tried hitting twice with flood and was a bit too much ink...yet still not coming through.


The OP Mgr’s print look cleaner. He has print exp.


We should not hav got flash this, or base it, but if all else fails, at least those are options.

[tbarnes]

We usually do a cool gray or warm gray for the neck label as previously mentioned...also depending on how much polyester the garment is we may even do heat transfers instead. We do transfers for anything fleece.

[Dottonedan]

Forgot mention, We are also using a PMS 430 grey.

[Sbrem]

We couldn't keep prints from coming through, so we make transfers, they never bleed through, and yes, it's more work, but we get paid for it. We've done up to 750 of them, and as long as we are getting paid for it, it's OK.

Steve

[ericheartsu]

what mesh count? We typically do transfers as well ,but when we direct print, we use 230, 280, or 300s.

[Dottonedan]

We were using a 156 mesh. Not my call, but am told that the higher mesh is better...and to let the mesh work for you and not YOU doing the work.  We did get it to a point where we could print and not have it come through, but it wasn’t really a smooth print.  Higher mesh would work better.


We are going to do transfers going forward.

[Prince Art]

Here, it's been 230 mesh only for neck label prints. All manual. Generally, a light flood + medium stroke. Some prints get a second stroke to clear better, but not usually. Also, thinned ink, so that less pressure is needed to clear.

[Maff]

We found it easier to dial in on the auto so it won't go through. 230 mesh as well.

 When we printed them manually we would use a stahls print pad under it, just tape it down with pallet tape, gives it more cushion to keep the print in top.

Transfers do work better and look nicer, but more work. 

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[Biverson]

We tag a couple hundred Triblends a week for a contract customer and have had good luck with direct print. 230 Hidro, no less. One hit with a 65/90/65 duro blade and a strong flood. We use sleeve tags and found it's crucial to not let the pallets get hot as the viscosity gets thinner and more apt to print through the shirt. A more short bodied ink like Wilflex Quick white works well. If we're really cookin' we can get up to 700/hr., but average 500/hr. to account for changing the sizes, which we just tape off.

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