Might try some Hi-Dro

[BrazosDesigns]

I have a new batch of mzx rollers to mesh.  I've been using Murakami s-mesh 150/180/225 on some of my frames.  I currently am doing 99% plastisol, but I'd like to get balanced between plasti/HSA waterbase/discharge this next year.

Some people have been talking up the HiDro.  Pros and cons?  What's more durable - less fragile?  Are they pretty much the same?  My usual place to buy mesh has Hi-Dro in 81/110/122/140/157/198/230/305.  What do you find are the best mesh and usage?  Typically I do all my bases and whites in 150s/180s, and top colors on 225s, but colors on light garments using 180.

Let me know if you've had success with HiDro, what inks, and tensions :-)

Thanks!
Darren

[Biverson]

I run all HiDro on M3 Rollers and love it. If you're already stretching S-Mesh then you know you'll lose a few....

****EDIT: My response was like 4 paragraphs long, written on my phone, but when it posted deleted it all. SMH. Be back later.***

[BrazosDesigns]

Looking forward to the other 4 paragraphs!  Appreciate the reply.

And looking forward to hearing what companies carry this in bolt mesh also.

Thanks,
Darren

[Biverson]

I run all HiDro on M3 Rollers and love it. If you're already stretching S-Mesh then you know you'll lose a few 

I do about 90% plastisol and still love using HiDro. It can speed up sim-process jobs substantially as there's much better coverage with just 1-hit. There's less pressure needed as well. I didn't want us to have to keep track of which is HiDro, which isn't, so went all in. Yes, more fragile than standard HiTec, but better return on investment IMHO.

I used to get some Murakami S-Mesh in when I had statics. I found it to be very fragile. It might have been because where I was getting them over-tensioned them. I was getting 135S in at 28N when the max recommended is 25N. I did not find the HiDro statics I got in to be as fragile. I still found that after a year of use many were in the 16N - 18N range. Not ideal. I'm not a large shop either - me, one employee, and an auto.

I got a variety of HiDro bolts in but found there to be two that I use 95% of the time. That's the 158.48 and 230.40. I have the 122.55 for p/f/p whites on smaller orders. I also have the 81.70 for shimmers and specialty inks. I've rarely popped any while one the roller table. The ones I have I was pushing the limits, or it was the 305.31 which is very, very fragile. I can get the 158.48 up to 32N and on press and the 230.40 up to 28N and on press. That's after the 2nd or 3rd retensioning. I don't do this for all of mine, just a few to try it out. Otherwise, I put them all to the max of their recommended tension (28N for 158.48 and 24N for 230.40).

I expose 55LPI on 158.48 regularly. Now, I don't have the tools to calibrate what dots I'm holding and losing, but from "eye-ballin' it" it's fantastic. It allows for a tad bit more of an base on sim-process designs with a 158.48.  It also helps I've got a Saati Autocoater, Douthitt CTS, and OLEC MH.

If you go with HiDro make sure you get the Direct Prep 2 that they've got. It helps the mesh bond with the emulsion better and will give you an extra step on your step-wedge test when exposing. It's crucial for waterbase. My rep Rick came in and went over it with me and showed me the difference. I tested exposure as well and he was right on it adding an extra step.

With my M3's and roller table I've found I that I have to NOT take it up to max tension right away. When I tighten the bolts that brings the tension up about 6-8 newtons. What I do is take the 158.48 up to 20N-22N and let it sit for a bit. While it's on the roller table I've got another table setup that I use to insert the mesh into the frame so I'm not sitting around twiddling my thumbs. After the mesh it in and corner's softened I go to the table and get all the bolts snug, then go around and get them all torqued. I then let that frame sit over-night (or some times for a couple hours) and it will drop a bit (around 4N) then re-tension them and put them into production.

If you want some Grade A, source info on rollers go on Facebook and join the group "Screen Printing Masterminds aka Face Mask Millionaires," and search for posts by Jesse Raymond Greenwood or Richard Greaves. Some really, really, really good info in there.

[BrazosDesigns]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge.  This is why I visit this board regularly.   I signed up for that facebook group and will check out the roller frame posts....much appreciated!

Where do you purchase your HiDro mesh?  I'm drawing blanks on where to get the bolt mesh to swap over completely to HiDro.  Like you, I used mainly 150 and 230 in the thin thread, but I'll probably get some 190 for top white, and then some 122 for making transfers.

Thanks!
Darren

[eliteinkprinting]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge.  This is why I visit this board regularly.   I signed up for that facebook group and will check out the roller frame posts....much appreciated!

Where do you purchase your HiDro mesh?  I'm drawing blanks on where to get the bolt mesh to swap over completely to HiDro.  Like you, I used mainly 150 and 230 in the thin thread, but I'll probably get some 190 for top white, and then some 122 for making transfers.

Thanks!
Darren

Any updates on the screens? About pulled the trigger on some HiDro inserts for our eco frames. Got too scared

[easyrider1340]

I’m using HiDro on Eco frames.  Much more forgiving vs S mesh, from a handling perspective.  Prints nice too. 


Terry
http://www.AllegiantGraphics.com
https://www.Facebook.com/AllegiantGraphics
https://www.Instagram.com/AllegiantGraphics
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[eliteinkprinting]

I’m using HiDro on Eco frames.  Much more forgiving vs S mesh, from a handling perspective.  Prints nice too. 


Terry
http://www.AllegiantGraphics.com
https://www.Facebook.com/AllegiantGraphics
https://www.Instagram.com/AllegiantGraphics
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where do you get your eco frames?

[easyrider1340]

I’m using HiDro on Eco frames.  Much more forgiving vs S mesh, from a handling perspective.  Prints nice too. 


Terry
http://www.AllegiantGraphics.com
https://www.Facebook.com/AllegiantGraphics
https://www.Instagram.com/AllegiantGraphics
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Where do you get your eco frames?

Ryonet (face palm). I think pricing is the same.  I haven’t completely changed over.  I still have several static’s with S mesh from Spot Color Supply.  Always been pleased with their product. 


Terry
http://www.AllegiantGraphics.com
https://www.Facebook.com/AllegiantGraphics
https://www.Instagram.com/AllegiantGraphics
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dottonedan]

I run all HiDro on M3 Rollers and love it. If you're already stretching S-Mesh then you know you'll lose a few....

****EDIT: My response was like 4 paragraphs long, written on my phone, but when it posted deleted it all. SMH. Be back later.***

I've had that happen and have learned to type it up in an email, then once done, copy and paste here.  Have’t had it happen in over a year or more but I know the happens and had never found out why.

[Admiral]

Personally I just copy it before posting and I can paste it if it fails to post.  Email would be even better as it saves as you go though.  Very annoying...