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Light source? I've only ever used point source lights, from Carbon Arc, to Metal Halide, and now Saati's Pro-lite 450. Point sources will make better halftones, but I believe plenty of folks using fluorescent tubes get it figured out, maybe some will chime in. At 45 lpi, on 305, you should be able to get most every dot. As for getting the dots on the screen the exact same size as the film, you should be very close, but even so, when you print, they will gain size, which of course teaches us how to compensate.Steve
I really appreciate the feedback. I’ve been printing part time for years, but spot color prints are much more forgiving. Terry
Quote from: easyrider1340 on September 18, 2019, 01:17:51 PMI really appreciate the feedback. I’ve been printing part time for years, but spot color prints are much more forgiving. TerryI don't want to nit-pick, nor let the discussion go too far astray, but the more statements like this go un-corrected, the more the terms will be misunderstood.Spot colors can be halftoned, or solid.Spot colors are simply colors printed with a single ink, either stock or mixed, rather than colors mixed in and by the printing process. 4 color process, simulated process, index prints, etc.
As Steve said emulsion is key for different light source, also when I had my tube unit I used a dual cure emulsion and color mesh, which seem to burn a hold lot better with my halftone work. I just started using a LED point light which is a 100 watt light and I'm getting better dots at 35 seconds using HXT emulsion, but what I've seen VPR might be a real good emulsion for LED exposure, I heard someone say it's not how long you expose, it's how well you expose the screen.
Quote from: Frog on September 18, 2019, 01:31:13 PMQuote from: easyrider1340 on September 18, 2019, 01:17:51 PMI really appreciate the feedback. I’ve been printing part time for years, but spot color prints are much more forgiving. Terry I don't want to nit-pick, nor let the discussion go too far astray, but the more statements like this go un-corrected, the more the terms will be misunderstood.Spot colors can be halftoned, or solid.Spot colors are simply colors printed with a single ink, either stock or mixed, rather than colors mixed in and by the printing process. 4 color process, simulated process, index prints, etc.You are correct. And this job is spot colors with halftones. I should have said block-letter, solid block or similar. Thank you. TerrySent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: easyrider1340 on September 18, 2019, 01:17:51 PMI really appreciate the feedback. I’ve been printing part time for years, but spot color prints are much more forgiving. Terry I don't want to nit-pick, nor let the discussion go too far astray, but the more statements like this go un-corrected, the more the terms will be misunderstood.Spot colors can be halftoned, or solid.Spot colors are simply colors printed with a single ink, either stock or mixed, rather than colors mixed in and by the printing process. 4 color process, simulated process, index prints, etc.
You get halftone detail you want to underexpose, 7 on the Stoufer is too high.You also need to check EOM, it will be hard to hold detail on a thick emulsion.How good is your vacuum?
From what I see your vac is not pulled down tight enough, if that is a full vac pull down?, I've been told and I think someone mention it here that LED is not really a good light source for thick coated screens...1/1 should be fine, or just increase your burn time.