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Quote from: RICK STEFANICK on July 05, 2019, 01:00:25 AMWe ran at 10ft/ min with 12 ft of heat with the temp set at 340 degrees.. We did 5 wash tests and yoiu could not tell the print had been washed. I don't think it needs that much retention time though. we just sent off also for Disney testing. The killer base was formulated to over print with plastisol and that's how they are marketing it. Atotally different situation than overprinting discharge with plastisol.Let me quote the Data Sheet for the Magna Killerbase"After printing the garment/panel should be cured, ideally for 1½- 2 minutes at 155-165°C (310 - 330°F) *or in line with plastisol ink curing requirements. "
We ran at 10ft/ min with 12 ft of heat with the temp set at 340 degrees.. We did 5 wash tests and yoiu could not tell the print had been washed. I don't think it needs that much retention time though. we just sent off also for Disney testing. The killer base was formulated to over print with plastisol and that's how they are marketing it. Atotally different situation than overprinting discharge with plastisol.
Just got back from the Origins class that Magna sponsored. They did clarify that killer base is not to be used with low cure plastisol inks. I m using wilflex Rio was having a problems with my colors cracking off and showing the white base after a few washes. Also, on any kind of blend or shirt that needs stretch...add 20-50% Aquaflex v2Other than that, for the price and how well it prints...it’s a game changer for printers looking to ditch the plastisol base. Just taking that factor out of your print changes the hand completely.
Quote from: IntegriTees on July 14, 2019, 10:06:51 AMJust got back from the Origins class that Magna sponsored. They did clarify that killer base is not to be used with low cure plastisol inks. I m using wilflex Rio was having a problems with my colors cracking off and showing the white base after a few washes. Also, on any kind of blend or shirt that needs stretch...add 20-50% Aquaflex v2Other than that, for the price and how well it prints...it’s a game changer for printers looking to ditch the plastisol base. Just taking that factor out of your print changes the hand completely.Damn, was real excited to use this but we are all in with rio colors. What other brands are people using with this and getting good results?
Maybe I should change my wording. It was more suggested that dryer temp and time needed to be paid attention to heavily when combining killer base with low cure plastisols. Low cure plastisol systems like Rio can bubble if too much heat is applied. Trying to keep the garment in the dryer long enough for the killer base to fully cure but not cross the higher temp threshold to disrupt the cure of the Rio colors probably can be achieved, but with effort.
Quote from: IntegriTees on July 15, 2019, 10:05:23 PMMaybe I should change my wording. It was more suggested that dryer temp and time needed to be paid attention to heavily when combining killer base with low cure plastisols. Low cure plastisol systems like Rio can bubble if too much heat is applied. Trying to keep the garment in the dryer long enough for the killer base to fully cure but not cross the higher temp threshold to disrupt the cure of the Rio colors probably can be achieved, but with effort.I’ll be doing some testing. Prints looked good and passed an initial wash test. Please keep us updated. I want to do some testing but hesitate on buying a fiver.Still trying to get a sample.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
We tried this on a 400 piece flag design yesterday on 2 brands of ladies tri blend shirts. Killer base with Union Bright Red, 280 blue and Quick White top. I didn't put any additives in the ink at all. Wanted to see how it ran straight out of the bucket. Overall it ran good. Overall hand was about the same as with our standard Quick White base with a smoothing screen. My biggest reason for wanting to use it was that its half the price of Quick White. We have a electric dryer. Initial wash tests turned out good. I will continue doing additional wash tests to see how the print holds up over time. We slowed down the belt and had them in the heat for 1 minute. Slowed us down a little as we were only able to run at 400ph.
Quote from: avogel on July 17, 2019, 02:15:03 PMWe tried this on a 400 piece flag design yesterday on 2 brands of ladies tri blend shirts. Killer base with Union Bright Red, 280 blue and Quick White top. I didn't put any additives in the ink at all. Wanted to see how it ran straight out of the bucket. Overall it ran good. Overall hand was about the same as with our standard Quick White base with a smoothing screen. My biggest reason for wanting to use it was that its half the price of Quick White. We have a electric dryer. Initial wash tests turned out good. I will continue doing additional wash tests to see how the print holds up over time. We slowed down the belt and had them in the heat for 1 minute. Slowed us down a little as we were only able to run at 400ph.I would advise with hsa style inks the waste and evaporation should be a consideration. With quick white whatever isnt used after the job is ran can be re used where as with hsa you have to recycle the old ink into new ink and you will lose some each time this is done. HSA does not go near as far as plastisol goes.... We go through drums of hsa so much faster then we ever did with plastisol so I would just keep that in mind.
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Topic: Magna Print Killer Base (Read 11458 times)
