HotHead, RoqIron temp setting

[chubsetc]

I have had a HotHead for a couple months and I’m trying to get my temps right.  I am using Quick White and having issues with the ink sticking to the Teflon (M&R Teflon sheet connected to the 2 80/20 bars).  I’ve played with both flash temps before the iron and then the iron temp.  Below about 315 degrees it doesn’t smooth the base as well but also doesn’t stick.  Above 315 I start getting the sticking of the Teflon and some pull-up of the shirt from the pallet, specifically in areas with more solid ink deposits.  The base is incredibly smooth though above about 325 using a 225/48 screen for the base.  Any help would be appreciated.

[LuckyFlyinROUSH]

Hot head settings  - 390 deg - 40psi - quick stroke.

If it is sitting on the shirt for too long at too high of a temp it will peel white off

Make sure white base completely dry.

[BP]

We run at 380 deg. Spray a little silicon on the back of the teflon. If it sticks just speed the stroke up.

[ffokazak]

damn y'all run them hot!

We run ours at 290, slow stroke.

Im going to try heating it up more!

[RICK STEFANICK]

BE sure the teflon in the sling is tight. We also run quick White

[jsheridan]

BE sure the teflon in the sling is tight. We also run quick White

One of the newer guys was having some pickup today and couldn't' figure out why. turned out to be a loose Teflon screen. used it as a training session on how to troubleshoot the Teflon and how to tighten it.

[chubsetc]

Thanks guys, we’ll play around and update!!

[IntegriTees]

wow, we're running the hot head at 350 at a slower speed.  I might try raising it with a faster stroke speed

I also tossed that sling out.  I could never get it to work and if you did have any sticking, it would start to pull the sling off the head clamp.
I went with a Shurloc EZ frame with their teflon panel.  That thing is tight and heavy duty.  works perfectly.

[Ross_S]

I thought you could run these as the first print?  In other words Iron the shirt prior to the base smoothing out any fibers there maybe and then you don't need to run a smoother.

Am I missing something I thought that was the better option than after the flash?

Ross

[LuckyFlyinROUSH]

You can use them as a first print, or a last print after flash. But the best way to matte down fibers we've found is to run it right after a flash on a base white.

Using it as a print first will still leave fibers sticking up.

Run your micros all the way in torwards the center of the press. Then lock in the sling pulling it tight as you lock it in, then start running your micros out so it tightens it up as much as possible.

I still do also like the teflon panel in a roller screen, but the teflon panel on a roller screen also tends to wear on corners of towels or other random items we print faster.

[Ross_S]

Interesting.  I've had a few reps try and talk me into it but I do really well with just a roller squeegee after the flash.  I haven't seen one in person in the last few years so I've got no hands on experience to say different.

[BP]

The hothead has 2 options. 1 is the hot iron and the other is a hot roller. I was told that the hot roller is for smoothing before the underbase. We just run the hot iron after the underbase and I will say I would not run a auto without one. It is a game changer for sure!

[ffokazak]

We had a roller before, non heated.  ( Stadard action one or whatever)  Yes it worked pretty good.

The hot head is night and day. once you get it dialled you won't want to go back.

Smoothest whites in the game.

[im_mcguire]

Can anyone confirm that these can be used with other presses maybe say a Workhorse? Or does it plug into the system of m&r, and it is proprietary.

[ffokazak]

Theres no speaking between the press and the hot head control.

You could put it on any press.

All controls are contained in the hot head box, so yeah I imagine it would work on any machine.