WHAT EMULSION ARE YOU USING?

[RICK STEFANICK]

Ulano Orange has been what I use most consistently. Only down side is my films like to stick to it when it gets warmer out. I tried some cordless dehumidifier in the screen room last week and it's cut down on the tackiness but still get the occasional trashed film on the lower S-Threads

That is a very high solids emulsion. I could just never really get the resolution I needed with it. Chroma blue is alternative to the ulano orange.

[BP]

Rick, maybe your times are off a bit? I have be using Orange for years because of the EOM. We do a lot of sim process at 75 LPI/300-S mesh.

Remember that single cure emulsion not the best for fine resolution but can work if you exposure time are spot on.

[RICK STEFANICK]

Rick, maybe your times are off a bit? I have be using Orange for years because of the EOM. We do a lot of sim process at 75 LPI/300-S mesh.

Remember that single cure emulsion not the best for fine resolution but can work if you exposure time are spot on.
[/quote

You know you may be right. we didn't test that one this round.. Thanks for pointing that out I will get some today and let the ladies give it a whirl,

[Nation03]

I've get some pretty great detail with the Orange which is why I keep coming back to it. I was using an Amergraph 150 for years before it crapped out and it was a great combo. Now I'm on my backup UV unit and the detail isn't quite as good but still not bad for Florescent bulbs.

[mooseman]

Ulano Orange has been what I use most consistently. Only down side is my films like to stick to it when it gets warmer out. I tried some cordless dehumidifier in the screen room last week and it's cut down on the tackiness but still get the occasional trashed film on the lower S-Threads

That is a constant problem with orange and waterproof film. We solve that by simply dusting the screen wit baby powder. Be sure to use the cheaper talc as the corn starch better quality powder will only make the condition worse.
mooseman

[Atownsend]

Baby powder worked for us. Since we switched to the Olec and vacuum frame we haven't had the need regardless of humidity. Not having heat on the glass from an enclosed unit is great. That exposure setup is still one of the best things i've ever bought. Running about 4 -5 gallons of ulna orange / month. About 100 screens / gallon according to latest data. We do mostly spot, so I like the high solids. Hard to coat thin on 280/35s but we still manage to hold pretty decent dots @ 55 LPI. Anyone ever mix in diazo with the Orange for better res?

[3Deep]

Homer got me hooked on HXT and I've been using it now for years, if not HXT my next would be a dual cure Imagemate 521, that stuff is pretty good, just burn times are a little longer but well worth it.   

[RICK STEFANICK]

Homer got me hooked on HXT and I've using it now for years, if not HXT my next would be a dual cure Imagemate 521, that stuff is pretty good, just burn times are a little longer but well worth it.
[/quote

Actually the image mate 521 is the predecessor of the DTS Z1. Chromaline does still make it but the formulation of the z1 was made considering the LED units . The 2 products are very very similar.

[tonypep]

Chroma blue is a great emulsion if you are DTS/LED. Holds more detail than you can imagine and exposes in two to three seconds

[RICK STEFANICK]

Chroma blue is a great emulsion if you are DTS/LED. Holds more detail than you can imagine and exposes in two to three seconds

YEA,TP we tested it and I have used many many gallons of chroma blue. Unfortunatly it's not even in the ball game with the Z1 as far as resolution on the higher end graphics. Chroma blue is a super overall emulsion though

[DannyGruninger]

We use murakami t9 here w/ diazo........ We've been doing some 7500 + pcs runs and no breakdown. All we run is wb here about 95% hsa

[RICK STEFANICK]

We use murakami t9 here w/ diazo........ We've been doing some 7500 + pcs runs and no breakdown. All we run is wb here about 95% hsa

wow  I will sample that one. It has been mentioned by others also

[Colin]

Rick,

The addition of Diazo to any water resistant emulsion like T9 (which I love btw) or PHU and all its variants is what helps to give it that massive longevity.

In addition Danny has so many of his processes, especially the dark room, down to an absolute science.

Making sure everything is done properly and correctly up front the first time, your stencil durability increases tremendously.

[CBCB]

Rick,

The addition of Diazo to any water resistant emulsion like T9 (which I love btw) or PHU and all its variants is what helps to give it that massive longevity.

In addition Danny has so many of his processes, especially the dark room, down to an absolute science.

Making sure everything is done properly and correctly up front the first time, your stencil durability increases tremendously.

This is how I understand it as well!

We are just about to switch from Ulano Orange to PHU+Diazo.

Why PHU? It’s freeze stable and we’re in Canada. Distribution seems better for us than MURAKAMI, and we have a Saati LED bulb in our ryonet exposure unit. So I think it’ll be a good fit.

Hoping to get our resolution up and to play with some more ink types.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[RICK STEFANICK]

Rick,

The addition of Diazo to any water resistant emulsion like T9 (which I love btw) or PHU and all its variants is what helps to give it that massive longevity.

In addition Danny has so many of his processes, especially the dark room, down to an absolute science.

Making sure everything is done properly and correctly up front the first time, your stencil durability increases tremendously.
[/quote

Yea, I am aware of that and do like the dual cures and have used them for a long time. We are just testing to get the same resolution with shorter exposure times. The longevity on water base runs is not as critical at this point. We also have a pretty tight Pre press set-up but with 16 staff artists and a lot of different separation techniques we are just testing all options.