screen registration system

[balloonguy]

A recent thread got me thinking about this again. I know of the triloc. Are there any others I should consider. I am currently using a 6 color diamond back. We also just got an older javelin. I have not even uncrated that yet. It will probably be after the summer before I actually set it up and learn how to use it though...
Thanks.
Matt

[Nation03]

I'm currently running a 6 Color Diamondback as well. I had an older Workhorse Freedom before this and I sort of rigged it to be tri-loc compatible. It kind of worked but it wasn't perfect. I'm having much better results with the tri-loc on the Diamondback. Either way, I would say definitely look into getting one. Makes setups faster. I haven't quite gotten to the point where I don't need to micro a job, but it's usually a very slight adjustment and I'm all set. I'm using carrier sheets and don't have a light table yet so I'm sure that's where some of the error is coming in, along with pulling too tightly against the stop blocks.

[lancasterprinthouse]

I'm currently running a 6 Color Diamondback as well. I had an older Workhorse Freedom before this and I sort of rigged it to be tri-loc compatible. It kind of worked but it wasn't perfect. I'm having much better results with the tri-loc on the Diamondback. Either way, I would say definitely look into getting one. Makes setups faster. I haven't quite gotten to the point where I don't need to micro a job, but it's usually a very slight adjustment and I'm all set. I'm using carrier sheets and don't have a light table yet so I'm sure that's where some of the error is coming in, along with pulling too tightly against the stop blocks.

I’m there with ya. Can I just say how much I hate the micros on the Diamondback? Side to side is a bear. To be honest I sometimes just unlock both screen clamps and tap it by hand to get it into registration. Sometimes it’s quicker than those damn micros.


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[Nation03]

I'm currently running a 6 Color Diamondback as well. I had an older Workhorse Freedom before this and I sort of rigged it to be tri-loc compatible. It kind of worked but it wasn't perfect. I'm having much better results with the tri-loc on the Diamondback. Either way, I would say definitely look into getting one. Makes setups faster. I haven't quite gotten to the point where I don't need to micro a job, but it's usually a very slight adjustment and I'm all set. I'm using carrier sheets and don't have a light table yet so I'm sure that's where some of the error is coming in, along with pulling too tightly against the stop blocks.

I’m there with ya. Can I just say how much I hate the micros on the Diamondback? Side to side is a bear. To be honest I sometimes just unlock both screen clamps and tap it by hand to get it into registration. Sometimes it’s quicker than those damn micros.


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Yeah, I think the issue for me is making the adjustments on a side clamp. I personally think it's easier to do rotational adjustments on a front and back screen screen hanger like on the Sportsman. That'll be my next press lol

[balloonguy]

[/quote]

I’m there with ya. Can I just say how much I hate the micros on the Diamondback? Side to side is a bear. To be honest I sometimes just unlock both screen clamps and tap it by hand to get it into registration. Sometimes it’s quicker than those damn micros.


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[/quote]
I am thrilled to hear you hate the micros too. I have never used anything else so I have noting to compare it to. I struggle far too often trying to get jobs dialed in. When printing on my vastex manual I have no problem with but registration. I have started choking my underbases and trapping top colors on the diamondback.

[Nation03]

I choke my underbase a little more then I usually do on the manual. Gives me some forgiveness if I can't quite get the top colors to be 100% dialed in. I'm thinking of getting a roll of that clear registration tape so I can make multiple adjustments/test prints without going through a ton of scrap shirts.

[rusty]

I choke my underbase a little more then I usually do on the manual. Gives me some forgiveness if I can't quite get the top colors to be 100% dialed in. I'm thinking of getting a roll of that clear registration tape so I can make multiple adjustments/test prints without going through a ton of scrap shirts.

I have been starting to do a lot of cmyk and sim process, and I don't have a tri-loc. So what I have been doing is after a basic registration for all the screens to a film, I will print the first color down, or the most dominate color (usually magenta to start) and then put clear tape over that print and print the next color. If its in reg, great. If not I just wipe the ink off and adjust until I get it right. and then do so for each color.

It's an old school way and it has helped get really good at the micros on the diamondback I have. And I only waste a pellon or one shirt.

[Atownsend]

I choke my underbase a little more then I usually do on the manual. Gives me some forgiveness if I can't quite get the top colors to be 100% dialed in. I'm thinking of getting a roll of that clear registration tape so I can make multiple adjustments/test prints without going through a ton of scrap shirts.

I have been starting to do a lot of cmyk and sim process, and I don't have a tri-loc. So what I have been doing is after a basic registration for all the screens to a film, I will print the first color down, or the most dominate color (usually magenta to start) and then put clear tape over that print and print the next color. If its in reg, great. If not I just wipe the ink off and adjust until I get it right. and then do so for each color.

It's an old school way and it has helped get really good at the micros on the diamondback I have. And I only waste a pellon or one shirt.

Problem with packing tape on the entire image is that it is a lot more ink to clean off, and during application you are more likely to make something move if you dont have perfectly fresh tack. We use regular scotch tape over the reg marks & only line up to those marks. A little bit off screen O on a rag and its pretty quick to dial things in.

If we have to adjust something after the reg marks are taped off we will sometimes adjust to the image, but I really like to only ever look at the reg marks when doing setup.

[rusty]

yeah, pretty much the same thing. the reason I have been doing the whole packing tape for sim/cmyk is I don't want ink buildup i the wrong places on back of the screen. Ands the mesh is usually 305 so not to much ink to wipe off.

Pulling the trigger on a tri loc soon enough

[balloonguy]

yeah, pretty much the same thing. the reason I have been doing the whole packing tape for sim/cmyk is I don't want ink buildup i the wrong places on back of the screen. Ands the mesh is usually 305 so not to much ink to wipe off.

Pulling the trigger on a tri loc soon enough

are you going to see the tri loc or just pulling the trigger site unseen. I emailed them a while and got a very "uninterested" response.  I would love to see it inaction at a shop or even a trade show. I know it is not a huge investment but I don't love the diamonback. I want to buy someting that I do really like...

[rusty]

I have used the tri loc before at another shop so I am familiar with it. And I am pretty much all in as an M&R shop at this point. I think its too expensive for what it is but I don't have the time to make my own at the moment. On the lookout for a used one.

That and the qwik clamp system

[lancasterprinthouse]

I have used the tri loc before at another shop so I am familiar with it. And I am pretty much all in as an M&R shop at this point. I think its too expensive for what it is but I don't have the time to make my own at the moment. On the lookout for a used one.

That and the qwik clamp system

I will say that the Triloc does help. Most of my screens are most of the way there so the adjustments I have to make are very minimal which is extremely helpful with the Diamondback micros. I’m not using a light table yet so I’m sure that will help when I get there. Last week I had two butt-register jobs with a .25pt overlap that registered 100% without micros. I’m still debating whether or not it’s worth the money but I can’t imagine not having it on the Diamondback. On my sidewinder it definitely wouldn’t be worth it as I could register jobs very quickly but the toughness of the Diamondback probably makes the investment worthwhile.


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[balloonguy]

Any of you guys use the anatol version? I know that is $2400.00. I never did get a price from M&R...

[lancasterprinthouse]

Any of you guys use the anatol version? I know that is $2400.00. I never did get a price from M&R...

The M&R was $2900 I believe. Complete and brand new. Used ones can be scored for half that but I’ve heard bad stories of the registration blocks being worn down and this not registering correctly.


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[Nation03]

I choke my underbase a little more then I usually do on the manual. Gives me some forgiveness if I can't quite get the top colors to be 100% dialed in. I'm thinking of getting a roll of that clear registration tape so I can make multiple adjustments/test prints without going through a ton of scrap shirts.

I have been starting to do a lot of cmyk and sim process, and I don't have a tri-loc. So what I have been doing is after a basic registration for all the screens to a film, I will print the first color down, or the most dominate color (usually magenta to start) and then put clear tape over that print and print the next color. If its in reg, great. If not I just wipe the ink off and adjust until I get it right. and then do so for each color.

It's an old school way and it has helped get really good at the micros on the diamondback I have. And I only waste a pellon or one shirt.

I did that today with a simple 2 color design. Worked great actually. Tri-loc got me most the way there but was still off. printed the base, flashed, taped over the design. got it dialed in after the second try and I was golden. I'm starting to see what kind of adjustments I need to make to get the screen to go where I want.

I got mine used from CGS. Reach out to Tony to see if he has any in stock. I forgot the exact price I paid, I think around $1700. Depending on how new it is, the price will vary. I have the older style but it still gets the job done.