S Mesh give Up!!

[3Deep]

Ok, I know some you have said that S mesh is the jam!!! so I jumped on them too, ordered them from a few different companies, nothing wrong with the screens it's all me I've popped just about everyone I've got LOL.  I think I'll stick with Spotcolor Supply and there saati screens, they are nice and tight and I can be a little rougher on them than those s mesh, print wise I don't really see that much of a difference except for the 135 S when printing white ink.  just my rant for today.

[im_mcguire]

We are in the opposite boat here.  I wish I had the cash to switch out my 50 qty 160 mesh I got from Spot color to 150 s mesh.  I have popped a lot of them too, but honestly its the nature of the business I feel.

Its why I charge a screen fee.  That screen fee partially pays for my reorder of the next batch of screens. 150 s mesh has changed the way we print here.
To each their own.

[ericheartsu]

you def. have to be more delicate with them.

Is anyone else having issues with spot color? We've been getting less and less tight screens, and overall have just had pretty lackluster service.

[cclaud3]

It's the best when you get a screen tech from another company that didn't use S mesh. They cannot wrap their head around the extra care required.

[Frog]

you def. have to be more delicate with them.

Is anyone else having issues with spot color? We've been getting less and less tight screens, and overall have just had pretty lackluster service.

Have you brought your disappointment to their attention? Up to this, it's all been thumbs up from our members.

[ABuffington]

I've reached out to 3Deep with specific instructions.  Contact me if any of you are having issues with Murakami S Mesh so I can help.  Each shop is different, some universal screen handling procedures of fine mesh need to be followed. 

Al - 323.697.4334 Anytime

[ericheartsu]

you def. have to be more delicate with them.

Is anyone else having issues with spot color? We've been getting less and less tight screens, and overall have just had pretty lackluster service.

Have you brought your disappointment to their attention? Up to this, it's all been thumbs up from our members.

yep, sure have. wondering if it's just us though.

[farmboygraphics]

With as much as it's talked about, makes me wonder if maybe I'm doing something wrong. I've only ever popped a few screens (flood stroke hit buttons on polos). Have been using s-mesh since day one on the auto.

[Gilligan]

Eric, I'll let you know, I should be getting a box in soon.  Maybe tomorrow?

I plan on testing them all as we are a bit slow.

[Gilligan]

Oh and Darryl... I haven't replaced a screen yet because it lost tension.

They never last that long. LOL

[mk162]

I just dropped off 3 cases of screens there the other day.  They were QCing the completed screens with a tension meter.  I have not had a single problem from them.

I had a problem I created and they tossed in a free restretch on one frame for me.

[mooseman]

We stretch smesh in Newman's took a little different softening technique but we have no issues.
Think you are using statics but definitely thinking it might be your handling. They do require some careful handling.
mooseman

[screenxpress]

We stretch smesh in Newman's took a little different softening technique but we have no issues.
Think you are using statics but definitely thinking it might be your handling. They do require some careful handling.
mooseman

As I've said several times, I'm not a very active printer and have only converted about 6 Newmans frames to S-mesh and have not ripped one...yet.  And I'm stretching (ala Mooseman's method) and getting to an easy 25-28 Newtons.

I guess this post is primarily for issues on static frames so my comment may be irrelevant.

[scott316]

you def. have to be more delicate with them.

Is anyone else having issues with spot color? We've been getting less and less tight screens, and overall have just had pretty lackluster service.

Have you brought your disappointment to their attention? Up to this, it's all been thumbs up from our members.

yep, sure have. wondering if it's just us though.

 I am sorry for any issues you had please contact me on my cell to talk more 4045834903.  We  would like to fix any problems you might have.

[ABuffington]

I like Shurloc S mesh panels for Newmans since the mesh never enters the channel, it rests on a plastic strip instead of wrapped around a thin edge which can have nicks and dents in older frames.  If anyone is stretching S mesh manually, here is a good trick.  Tear off a piece of 1/2" masking tape the length of the channel.  Place 1/2 the width along the edge of the channel, the inside edge, and leave half over the channel.  Then use a credit card and wrap it underneath and around the sharp inside edge smoothly.  It can be done in one continual motion to wrap it around and get no folds.  This acts as a shock absorb-er and softens the edge so it doesn't chew away at the S mesh.  On some newmans there is also a sharp corner at the end of the roller. I will place a small bit of tape over this as well.  Above all soften the corners properly before adding too much tension.  Smartmesh reaches tension quick due to low elongation properties, quicker than any other mesh. 

If you use an auto stretch table do not just flip the air switch on.  This can take mesh up to fast and past a good tension sometimes depending on how the mesh was captured.  On S mesh use the air valves and watch your tension gauge and measure in both directions constantly.  Tap the mesh surface to make sure the meter is reading correctly, it can be +/- 2n and be important to tap mesh towards the end of the stretching.  One other trick is to drop tension in the narrow direction of the screen by 1-2 newtons.  This helps absorb the momentary higher tension caused by off contact and squeegee pressure between the corner and the frame.

  After 2-3 re-tensions you will have a good work hardened screen at excellent print tensions.  (which is mesh count specific)  The amount of tension your screens can handle in the tension range of the mesh printing on press depends on how well it is tuned up.  Perfectly level pallets on all arms?  Perfect equal off contact on all heads, often at 2-3mm?  Proper duro squeegee, angle? = higher tension is possible: 35-40 on Newmans using only T or HD mesh. (Thicker threads)  Statics top out at 30 without warping or bending the side bar radically.  If you run your presses hard, pallets could be tweaked out of level slightly, off contact may vary? then 22-25n may be easier to print and accommodate a less than well tuned press, Smartmesh holds register anywhere in the tension range and avoids accumulated elongation caused by mesh warming up to the squeegee stroke forces in one direction constantly. 

Call me if anyone has any issues
Al 323.697.4334