Printing Silicone

[Maxie]

We are asked to print on a lot on sweatshirts that are 100% polyester, our cotton plastisols don't work well and I want to try Silicone.   
Our local suppliers don't carry Silicone so I'll have to import some, most probably Rutland.          I have a few questions for printers who are already using Silicone before I go to that expense.
1 Will I be able to print white once (double stroke) without FPF and get a good result?
2 How much do you waste because of ink drying after you add the hardener?
3 What screen do you use?

[Frog]

Is there a reason that you aren't trying regular Poly specific ink?
Although Silicone has it's plusses, nootably lower cure temps, it is also quite a bit more expensive.
btw, you can lengthen it's mixed pot life by keeping it in a closed container in the fridge.

[Maxie]

I don't have a Poly specific ink, all the Rutland/Union whites I have are for 50/50.
I can use the Barrier grey but I want to print once.

[Frog]

Well, standard White Poly inks notwithstanding, the superior dye blocking low temp characteristics of the Silicone ink are quite a feature.
Here's a link to the tech sheet of the Image Star product.
https://sourceone.nazdar.com/Portals/0/TDS/ImageStar-Silicone-InfoGuide_2015-web.pdf

[kirkwad]

Silicone inks will work great for dye migration, however you have a pot life after combining the additive & will have to toss any unused ink after printing. So you're setting yourself up for waste & loss of money. There are better options you have with using plastisol inks that will keep you from wasting supplies & cutting into your profit.

One Stroke Inks have their ELT-S series of inks. They are low-cure & have great stretchability, print characteristics, & dye blocking capability. This is the most similar plastisol ink you'll get to silicone ink. You can also add a Digital Black Underbase to increase dye blocking capability. We use these inks in our shop & we love them.

You could also use Rutland Endurance Plus White, which is also a low-cure 100% polyester ink. You can combine this with Rutland's Grey Blocker Base (also low-cure) for increased dye blocking capability.

Or you could just use Rutland Super Poly White which is for 100% polyester garments, but isn't a low-cure ink. Some troublesome garments may still bleed, but you can also add the Grey Barrier Base to curb this problem.