Tape Sucks!

[bryanprints]

Going tapeless was one of the better things our shop has done the last few years. 

[ZooCity]

No response on the new panels from shurloc.   Until we do a screen size change shopwide we're still chugging along with taping rollers.

[ebscreen]

Going tapeless was one of the better things our shop has done the last few years.

Can you elaborate how you achieved it? IE what size frames, etc.?

We're 1/4 tapeless on plastisol only. IE we don't tape the bottom roller haha.

[rusty]

we have gone tapeless, but we are a static only shop. We just coat once with 24'" scoop then do a coat on both sides with a smaller scoop to get a nice coat. Then just scrape off excess with clean up card. Takes little longer but so worth it.

using blockout tape/glues seems way too messy with ink in corners and water hitting back at you when reclaiming.

[Inkworks]

Tapeless rollers are achievable, but you just need to go to 25x36" for regular sized prints. Get a wide scoop coater, put the image on in the right spot and there is never any ink getting on shirts here.

With a 16" squeegee and plastisol, it is easy to achieve tapeless rollers.

Anything larger than about 14x18" would need to be taped.

If I could go back I'd go with larger screens just to go tapeless, but on our current 23 x 31's we'd end up with ink on the inside of the frames all the time even if we had permanent block-out. I could change to larger screens, but we'd need new storage and drying racks too, and that would really start to add up price wise.

[domineight]

I'm still in the habit of using a blockout on all my screens. A water based filler for plastisol and solvent inks, and on the odd times I use waterbase I use some of my solvent ink as a filler. And the suppliers here still finish with a silicone bead from mesh to frame with static ali frames.

Old habit I know and probably not functional for the larger places running 50-100 screens a day. Still, no tape though..

[shurloc]

Hey everyone, sorry about the delay on getting out the M3's... Just about everyone has asked for the S-Thread panels and those aren't quite through the testing process yet. I have standard T-Threads (110/80, 160/64, 225/48 and 300/34, plus quite a few in between) ready to ship, but not everything yet. I'll send out emails to those that replied as soon as the S-Threads are ready to roll.

[merchmonster]

we're going tapeless but:

1) my guys are complaining about tapeless being harder to reclaim since the ink is getting stuck on the squeegee side of the frame and no easy way to blow it out fron the shirt side.

2) we put the job and ink info on the screen, so that the ink station can easily put the ink into the screen. however that still requires taping over the job info.

any tips? our frame size is 23x31 static

[rusty]

i've gone tapeless.. I just use a 22" wide scoop coater for the first coat (on print side) and then use an 18" wide to coat out side (and scoop up excess) and then coat inside. I have a cleanup card handy to scrape off excess around edges. Takes a little longer but is so worth it for tape costs and reclaiming.

We use static frames.

[ericheartsu]

we keep having issues with screen breakdown along the squeegee run, so we've had to tape the runs on the inside of the frames. Also, as we start switching to shurloc frames, we always tape up the inner corners as a saftey precaution.

[shurloc]

Just wanted to let you all know that we are getting really close to getting some "S" Threads ready to roll...

I have a handful of you on the list, but if you are interested in an 23x31 M3 150/48 panel, just let me know.

[lancasterprinthouse]

Just wanted to let you all know that we are getting really close to getting some "S" Threads ready to roll...

I have a handful of you on the list, but if you are interested in an 23x31 M3 150/48 panel, just let me know.

I am


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[ABuffington]

We coat with an auto here for consistency of EOM, too wide a coater can affect EOM.  We then come back with 2" mini scoop coaters to coat between the frame and wet coated emulsion.  Not exactly tapeless, but blocks out enough to eliminate much of the tape.  On S mesh I highly recommend rounding off squeegees and putting tape under the edge of the squeegee edge path.  Landing tape also helps absorb chopper style squeegee floodbars.