cap film for water base

[balloonguy]

Does anyone make a cap film that can be used for wb/dc? I want to learn some more about these but I don't want to bring in a new emulsion yet. The stuff I use now will not hold up for more than a few prints.
Thanks,

[domineight]

I don't believe so, though I personally haven't touched an indirect stencil for probably 10 years, and was always limited to just a couple that I had always used. We did a long long time ago fashion water resistant stencils from amberlith/rubylith and apply it to mesh with two-way thinner.

Sounds like a long round about way to do it though, I'd just buy some suitable emulsion in a quart size for your testing and avoid grief and drama.

[Frog]

I don't believe so, though I personally haven't touched an indirect stencil for probably 10 years, and was always limited to just a couple that I had always used. We did a long long time ago fashion water resistant stencils from amberlith/rubylith and apply it to mesh with two-way thinner.

Sounds like a long round about way to do it though, I'd just buy some suitable emulsion in a quart size for your testing and avoid grief and drama.

Cap film is still a direct method, exposed and developed after application. It's essentially sheets of emulsion used to bypass the coating step and assure precise stencil thickness no matter what mesh it's on.

[domineight]

Yes, I just associate it as indirect being a film applied either before or after.

I actually have 9 rolls of Ulano Prex from a machinery (business) purchase around Christmas time I have no idea what I'm going to do with. I'm not sure why anyone would have 9 rolls of the stuff in the first place.

Still though, I've never heard of a direct/indirect film for waterbase inks. For the cost of a quart of emulsion though, I'd be reaching for the coater and be done with it.

[Shanarchy]

Does anyone make a cap film that can be used for wb/dc? I want to learn some more about these but I don't want to bring in a new emulsion yet. The stuff I use now will not hold up for more than a few prints.
Thanks,

What cap film are you currently using?

We use EZ film. Which is basically Ulano Orange. It's made for plastisol. If you're just looking to do a short run to experiment you'll be fine. It will breakdown, so work somewhat quick with it. We do posters every now and then and use Speedball acrylic and can get a couple hundred prints before the stencil starts to give. Post expose if you're going this route.

Obviously not the long term solution. I believe there is another manufacturer (Chromaline?) who makes one that will work with WB, but if I remember correct it is very expensive.

[balloonguy]

thanks for the replies. I do not use cap film now. I was just looking for something that would have a long shelf life as i am not ready to make wb/dc a regular option. I will buy an emulsion I can use by the quart until I am comfortable enough to offer this full time.

[Atownsend]

We printed some discharge with Ulano Orange photopolymer + Murakami Hardener last week. Only 100 pcs but we didn't have any breakdown on any of the screens. If EZ film is the same, then it might work. We apply the hardener after exposure washout, while the stencil is still a little damp, so that the hardener gets pulled in as it dries. We post exposed as well, but there is no diazo so that might have been pointless. No issues with reclaim.

[Frog]

We printed some discharge with Ulano Orange photopolymer + Murakami Hardener last week. Only 100 pcs but we didn't have any breakdown on any of the screens. If EZ film is the same, then it might work. We apply the hardener after exposure washout, while the stencil is still a little damp, so that the hardener gets pulled in as it dries. We post exposed as well, but there is no diazo so that might have been pointless. No issues with reclaim.

Actually, that's just what you want. It's the photopolymer that benefits from post exposure. Once a Diazo emulsion gets wet from development, it is done.