Black ink questions...

[Prince Art]

Okay, feel free to tell me why this is a bad idea, as I haven't dealt with the same situation exactly, but... what if you used low cure, or fast flash, for your white ink? That would effectively let you reduce the amount of time the black spends under the flash, and could alleviate the problem. Maybe?

[Colin]

There is no white that flashes THAT fast

Also, the primary battle I will face in this, are the quartz bulbs in the Red Chili Flashes causing the black to absorb heat so fast that it melts Poly/Synthetic threads.

And its not just the first flash that's the main issue... its the subsequent flashes in the design which makes this the true headache. (that and hot boards...)

I can make a black that works great under a single flash.... but all the components that BUFFER the black are used up (essentially) under the first flash.

IR Panel flashes are ideal for situations like this, we just don't have any for the auto.

[ZooCity]

Since our sportsman, for reasons beyond my comprehension, only had one input/control for a q flash we used a Reno as the 2nd flash.   

Lucky we did as there were jobs that simply could not run with that Chili.  It's simply the wrong wavelength of energy at the wrong power for much of the work a modern textile shop is doing.   IR is a must to complement those types of flashes, imo.    Not bashing the chili flash here, it's a solid piece of kit, just not quite right on the wavelength and power control.

[cleveprint]

this is exactly why we bought a IR with our new press last summer. ruined way too many triblends and blends with the quartz. but the chili really works well on cotton shirts!

[Inkworks]

QCM-901 WOW black, and cut 50/50 with halftone base, but you still need to be careful with the quartz flashes, flash time is about 1/2 what a white takes.

[Nation03]

I know all art is different, but is it possible to just leave the black as the last color printed to avoid flashing it all together?

[Colin]

I know all art is different, but is it possible to just leave the black as the last color printed to avoid flashing it all together?

I am chasing this as a solution to the problems that arise when you cant get a clean print from your black going last.  I.e. details are to fine to drop cleanly in between very narrow walls of white and color.

And yes, more often than not - I can print black before the last flash, but it is still art dependent.

Printing black first takes away the 3-dimensional headache, but introduces the volatility that is black ink.

I have the QCM black here, and even at the reduced pigment levels when cut, you will still have quartz bulb issues.  Even my custom chromatic black at 2% black pigment would smoke up.  On poly blends it still has a chance to melt...

I did talk with Joe Clark and he currently does not have a solution

Like I said in the beginning, I don't think there is a ready for market product that will work under quartz bulbs...  an additive maybe...

[ebscreen]

Out of curiosity have you tried increasing the distance between flash and pallets? 

Probably similar results to lowering intensity, but when we get puzzles like this it's
one of the variables we'll try changing.

[Colin]

It is similar to changing the intensity.

[ebscreen]

Got it.

I had wondered if wavelength would increase as you get further away from the substrate.

Knowing just enough to be dangerous is my specialty.

[Colin]

*mad scientist chuckle* MUAHAHAHAHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

[ScreenFoo]

Got it.

I had wondered if wavelength would increase as you get further away from the substrate.

Knowing just enough to be dangerous is my specialty.

I remember reading a rather interesting article* that mentioned different IR flash temps corresponded with slightly different wavelengths of energy, which corresponded with slightly different efficiencies in heating different colors of inks and substrates.  I wish I could find it again.

It would be interesting to find out if there's a parallel in quartz, i.e. different inert gas in the tube or AC properties of the supplied power source changing how efficiently the ink is cured based on it's color.

*Disclaimer: It was a little over my head as far as wave theory and thermodynamics goes

[Frog]

What an age we live in!
Sometimes, I get to thinking, as knowledge for this business, though easier to find, has gotten really grown in technicality and sophistication, if I really, really had a handle on all of it, and really understood the "whys", I'd wonder why the hell I was slingin' ink rather than designing new energy sources or miracle cures or surgeries for what ails humankind.

[Colin]

I have been pondering the whole flash/heat source thing....

IR panels are slow-ish to flash, but definitely more stable then quartz...

Engineering wise, can we put a cover in front of the bulbs that changes its wavelength?  Like we do for safe lights in the dark room.  We would still be getting the intense heat from the bulbs so, obviously adding some forced air would help, like has been added to newer quartz flash units.  At that point we would also want to run very close - shorter distance between bulbs and substrate...

It would potentially help with flashing of black AND the more delicate fabric blends out there.  Specifically, there are carbon colored fabric blends that looooooooove to melt under quartz bulbs...  its obviously to much to ask for from fabric makers right?

It may not be a miracle cure for mankind.... but a huge assist for Printerkind

Anyways.... its a thought.

[ScreenFoo]

What an age we live in!
Sometimes, I get to thinking, as knowledge for this business, though easier to find, has gotten really grown in technicality and sophistication, if I really, really had a handle on all of it, and really understood the "whys", I'd wonder why the hell I was slingin' ink rather than designing new energy sources or miracle cures or surgeries for what ails humankind.

You aren't hiring for a energy startup with buckets of venture capital by any chance?