how would you print this

[Croft]

thought I would see what others would do on a print like this.
looks simple , but some issues may arise. More interested at how others would print.

Being printed on UA poly tee BLACK
- 6 colour auto/ with revolver


wet on wet issues I see with a large graphic design
- bleed between colours
- have a hard time getting reflex and darker blues to lay down nice

[3Deep]

Poly low bleed low temp white ink, top colors on a 230 should give you good cover with one stroke WOW one round. good tight screens and get your squeegee pressure right your good to go.  Nothing is set in stone here but this is how I set it first and see what I got.

UB 156-180 ct
flash
light blue  230 ct
dark blue 230 ct
gray        230 ct
Hi white   180 ct

[Homer]

With a 6 color, Think I'd go a bit different, I would use the bleed blocker grey as the UB, flash, light blue, white, flash, dark blue....

[Croft]

With a 6 color, Think I'd go a bit different, I would use the bleed blocker grey as the UB, flash, light blue, white, flash, dark blue....

I thought about this , if it was a darker grey I would probably do that , but its a bit light and I don't think the grey would look good with even a double stroke.

[Croft]

Poly low bleed low temp white ink, top colors on a 230 should give you good cover with one stroke WOW one round. good tight screens and get your squeegee pressure right your good to go.  Nothing is set in stone here but this is how I set it first and see what I got.

UB 156-180 ct
flash
light blue  230 ct
dark blue 230 ct
gray        230 ct
Hi white   180 ct

I think I may come in on the weekend and give this a try

[Colin]

That darker blue will lighten up like crazy.

Those shades are VERY clean.  There is no mud in them to hide translucency issues.

So, fyi, you will want to make a darker shade than that in order for it to print close to what you want and, put it closer to the end of the print.  Its honestly worth running Revolver just to flash after the dark blue.

Grey will have a lot of leeway for wet on wet printing, I would put that early in the sequence.

[mimosatexas]

I would use the gray as UB, especially on a poly shirt.  It will print very cleanly with a single stroke with the right mesh.  I wouldn't underbase the dark blue honestly.  I would just use a lighter navy (with good opacity and a lower mesh) to compensate for no base.  Something like reflex blue with a touch of white would produce that shade on black.  Then print the light blue and white.

edit:

My print order would be:
NAVY
GRAY
flash
LIGHT BLUE
WHITE

[3Deep]

 Its honestly worth running Revolver just to flash after the dark blue.

I thought this too but I don't know how many pc's he's running so moving that darker blue deeper in the print run and stepping on it with two light colors will help keep it dark and just one time around.

[bpfohler]

I would use the gray as UB, especially on a poly shirt.  It will print very cleanly with a single stroke with the right mesh.  I wouldn't underbase the dark blue honestly.  I would just use a lighter navy (with good opacity and a lower mesh) to compensate for no base.  Something like reflex blue with a touch of white would produce that shade on black.  Then print the light blue and white.

edit:

My print order would be:
NAVY
GRAY
flash
LIGHT BLUE
WHITE

  No underbase?

[Doug S]

I would use the gray as UB, especially on a poly shirt.  It will print very cleanly with a single stroke with the right mesh.  I wouldn't underbase the dark blue honestly.  I would just use a lighter navy (with good opacity and a lower mesh) to compensate for no base.  Something like reflex blue with a touch of white would produce that shade on black.  Then print the light blue and white.

edit:

My print order would be:
NAVY
GRAY
flash
LIGHT BLUE
WHITE

  No underbase?

I may be wrong but I think he's meaning use the gray as an underbase.

[merchmonster]

Depending on the requirement for color matching you might want to try and get away with cutting the underbase to make some of your colors. You can make a grey from top white with no underbase. You could also make dark blue from light blue by cutting the base.

It will have the additional benefit of print not feeling like a giant piece of plastic. Ymmv on what the colors look like when printed with no base any any migration issues for non poly inks. Do some simple swatch testing before hand

[blue moon]

I would use the gray as UB, especially on a poly shirt.  It will print very cleanly with a single stroke with the right mesh.  I wouldn't underbase the dark blue honestly.  I would just use a lighter navy (with good opacity and a lower mesh) to compensate for no base.  Something like reflex blue with a touch of white would produce that shade on black.  Then print the light blue and white.

edit:

My print order would be:
NAVY
GRAY
flash
LIGHT BLUE
WHITE

dark blue is going to bleed if you don't underbase it. It might look OK when done, but will darken over time.

Homer's idea of a bleed blocker would be the way to go. I would go with black or clear thought rather than gray and revolve since is on a 6 color press. Not every job will run efficiently, the quality of the finished product takes precedence over the speed of production. We see it all the time, the only advantage we have is that there is an extra automatic sitting around so we schedule it there. 100 pcs and all day to print, OUCH! But as long as you charge accordingly, it's all good!

pierre

[siestasol]

We usually "fix" the grey blocker from Rutland to match the grey on the art with Poly White, and then all the other colors on top.