"He who marches out of step hears another drum." ~ Ken Kesey
156 - 20 = 150s/48 - 30180 - 30 = 180s/48 - 30230 - 30 = 225s/40 - 20305 - 20 = 270/34 - 15330 = 330/30 - 5http://www.murakamiscreen.com/documents/MeshGuidefromCatalogweb.pdfI am quite fond of thin thread meshes. Yellow thread as often as possible.
We are adding 80 roller frames right now. But I if was doing 100 of em....135 / 55 = 30 150/ 48 = 25230 / 40 = 30280/ 34 = 15All NBC (formerly dynamesh or vice versa). Alpha series, amber color in all counts. I haven't found a need for a count between 150 & 230. What are you guys using those 180's for? Halftone bases?
Quote from: Atownsend on January 10, 2018, 07:31:48 PMWe are adding 80 roller frames right now. But I if was doing 100 of em....135 / 55 = 30 150/ 48 = 25230 / 40 = 30280/ 34 = 15All NBC (formerly dynamesh or vice versa). Alpha series, amber color in all counts. I haven't found a need for a count between 150 & 230. What are you guys using those 180's for? Halftone bases?We do a lot of 180s mesh for top colors. We still do lots of flashing, the owner likes a very clean sharp look. When we do need to print anything wet on wet we use the 225s.The 150s is a beast for us for underbases. When needed I just coat 1/2 and my eom is really thick.... Couple that up with a good shorter bodied opaque white and we are off to the races.Roller frames, sure lock panels, murakami mesh for us but you can get Saati there as well. Minimum of 25 newtons, prefer an average of 27/28. Takes a while to truly work harden a screen.
is the 135/55 a yellow mesh?We do so much HSA, that we also have alot of 80s, 110s, and 122s.