Need help troubleshooting dryer!

[Prince Art]

Lawson Encore, 2 elements. At the end of the last run, first element stopped working. This unit has dedicated temp controllers per element, so I opened the panel & rewired to controller for 2nd element, since I know that one is good. That didn't fix anything, ruling out temp controller as the problem. I took the top off the tunnel & did a visual check of the wiring to the element, and everything appears to be intact.

Elements themselves were replaced less than 4 years ago, and are not always on. (One man shop, so production isn't always running.)

What do I check next? I assume a multimeter will be involved, but I've never used one.

Any help is appreciated!

[IntegrityShirts]

Probably a relay problem. Probably wired from controller-to-relay-to-heater panel. Post pics of the control box and wiring if you can. That would us tell you exactly what to check and where with a multimeter.

[Northland]

Lawson Encore, 2 elements. At the end of the last run, first element stopped working. This unit has dedicated temp controllers per element, so I opened the panel & rewired to controller for 2nd element, since I know that one is good. That didn't fix anything, ruling out temp controller as the problem. I took the top off the tunnel & did a visual check of the wiring to the element, and everything appears to be intact.

Elements themselves were replaced less than 4 years ago, and are not always on. (One man shop, so production isn't always running.)

What do I check next? I assume a multimeter will be involved, but I've never used one.

Any help is appreciated!

Based on the fact that this heat panel doesn't work on either controller:
1) Watch a couple Youtube videos on using a multimeter ( testing for continuity -or- resistance). There are quite a few videos available.
2) Purchase an inexpensive multimeter.
3) Shut off all the power
4) Remove the two wires than run to the heat panel.
5) Place the Multimeter leads on the two wires.... you should read around 10-30 ohms of resistance, but anywhere close to that is a "good" reading.
If the reading is infinity... you have an "Open circuit" (bad connection, bad heat panel, bad wire). Connections at heat panels are notorious for failing.
Good luck...

[Prince Art]

Thanks for the input. Got the multimeter, and in a way, it helped... when I was trying to take off the wires @ element, I found that one had broken (burned out?) behind the terminal ring. It was still sitting perfectly inline, so just looking at it, it seemed fine. But that made the fix easy, and next time I know to tug around a bit, not just rely on visuals. (Of course, I don't know WHY it burned out at the terminal, nor how to prevent it. But at least the dryer is working now.)

[Frog]

Thanks for the input. Got the multimeter, and in a way, it helped... when I was trying to take off the wires @ element, I found that one had broken (burned out?) behind the terminal ring. It was still sitting perfectly inline, so just looking at it, it seemed fine. But that made the fix easy, and next time I know to tug around a bit, not just rely on visuals. (Of course, I don't know WHY it burned out at the terminal, nor how to prevent it. But at least the dryer is working now.)

Corrosion is a typical culprit to increase resistance which increases heat.

[Zelko-4-EVA]

 i think i used stainless steel crimp connectors while repairing an IR panel...  expensive part, but cheaper than lost production time.

[Frog]

i think i used stainless steel crimp connectors while repairing an IR panel...  expensive part, but cheaper than lost production time.

I did the same thing, with an old Ranar but found that the old wire was not nice and shiny clean looking and had to replace it rather than just cut and strip off the insulation a little shorter.

[Zelko-4-EVA]

exactly - if you dont have bright copper it will fail again.

[Prince Art]

There was actually a big glob of what looked like solder at the breaking point. I'm not sure what it could be, as no solder was used on the wires, just crimp terminals. No other terminals looked like this, though they are all pretty well blackened. I refurbed the dryer less than 4 years ago - new panels, new wire, new temp controls - so it surprised me to have a problem this soon. I can't remember if I used stainless terminals or not, but I will aim for that in the future. For the immediate fix, I just had to strip the wire back to clean, wrap around the post, and hold down with a flat washed & nut.

[Northland]

There was actually a big glob of what looked like solder at the breaking point. I'm not sure what it could be, as no solder was used on the wires, just crimp terminals. No other terminals looked like this, though they are all pretty well blackened. I refurbed the dryer less than 4 years ago - new panels, new wire, new temp controls - so it surprised me to have a problem this soon. I can't remember if I used stainless terminals or not, but I will aim for that in the future. For the immediate fix, I just had to strip the wire back to clean, wrap around the post, and hold down with a flat washed & nut.

In applications where the wire connection is exposed to high heat and repetitive heat-cool cycles... the recommending crimp terminal is "Nickel plated Steel" 
Similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/12-10-High-Temperature-Ring-Terminals-Stud/dp/B00NVD3FE6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511021593&sr=8-2&keywords=high+temp+ring+terminals.

Standard crimp terminal, over time, will develop increasing connection resistance.... which creates heat and eventually melts either the wire or the terminal.
 

[Frog]

There was actually a big glob of what looked like solder at the breaking point. I'm not sure what it could be, as no solder was used on the wires, just crimp terminals. No other terminals looked like this, though they are all pretty well blackened. I refurbed the dryer less than 4 years ago - new panels, new wire, new temp controls - so it surprised me to have a problem this soon. I can't remember if I used stainless terminals or not, but I will aim for that in the future. For the immediate fix, I just had to strip the wire back to clean, wrap around the post, and hold down with a flat washed & nut.

The big glob was most likely melted remnants of something that was initially part of the connection.