Question For Simple Seps Users.

[Prosperi-Tees]

Why cant I get a halftone "tinted" underbase? I check the tinted option and it gives me a solid underbase. I attached the hightail link so you can see what I am working with. This is going on black T's.

Any help would be appreciated!
https://www.hightail.com/download/OGhkZGlqTSs1UjdIRHNUQw

[Dottonedan]

Because most of everything on that art is a very light or bright color and some areas are pastel. If going on any dark garment, you don't want a halftone underbase under those flames in the center since they are pastel looking. You will need white showing behind that to help give yo that pastel color.


The only areas that (could) go with halftone are the red areas. Even at that, would only be about 75-80% solid. You may as well make them all solid.  Besides, that dot size you are using is pretty big. Any halftone showing to the garment will make it all that much more dotty looking.


I'm assuming it might be going on black tees based on the missing black ink (on your color version) in the type.


Also, when separating these and having the program puting halftones, you should use at least 600 ppi so that the dots will come out crisp or crisper than they are.

[Prosperi-Tees]

The big problem im having is that im trying to match a previously printed shirt where the only solid part of the underbase is the 100% yellow on the cross and the flame, oh and the red necklace thing amd white outline text. other than that it's all dots

[Dottonedan]

It might be better for you to post up a picture of the previous print so we can see how they did it.  Your inks may be different than theirs.
Also, halftone line count and mesh might be different than what they were using. That all plays a roll in the look. Your separations look to show a good bit of white coming through (as intended for the pastel colors).  Having a halftones underbase will let the inks fall to the shirt color and if the shirt color is black, then the inks printing straight to shirt (inside the dot area or negative areas) will look darker, not white... and (much darker) if the inks are translucent.

[Prosperi-Tees]

Yes I will do that when I get back to the shop in the morning. I knew I should've brought it with me!

[Sbrem]

It may also be that the previous printer did not use Simple Seps, so you may have to just manually work on that channel in Photoshop (I'm not familiar with the CD tools) and bring it back in to your seps...


steve

[Dottonedan]

I have two most used methods if getting an underbase.
I tried both and one was totally solid straight out. The other had about about 90% anywhere it had halftones. Now, I could then adjust it so that it was more open, but to me the art reads that it should be solid.

This could also be a case where the last print didn't look like the original art was to be, but was ran anyways and customer was happy with it. Happens often.

[Sbrem]

I have two most used methods if getting an underbase.
I tried both and one was totally solid straight out. The other had about about 90% anywhere it had halftones. Now, I could then adjust it so that it was more open, but to me the art reads that it should be solid.

This could also be a case where the last print didn't look like the original art was to be, but was ran anyways and customer was happy with it. Happens often.

Ain't that the truth.

Steve

[Prosperi-Tees]

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=2BC84ECB4973AAA5!109&authkey=!AENv3R6Uq8h2W6Q&ithint=folder%2c.mp4

Don't if this link will work, its only one of the pics. Ill upload more after I get out of church.

[Dottonedan]

Top looks to be the previous print provided as reference.


2nd seems to be your results.


3rd is the original art.  Notice the lighter area on the cross original and the results on prints.


I would go back to the customer, show them this and see how they want to proceed.  I think a solid white underbase is going to put you where you should be. They may get the impression that you really know what you're doing or they may think you're spending too much time on it. One never knows what direction they will take, but in most cases, the may think you know more of what you're doing than the previous printer.

[Prosperi-Tees]

Thanks for posting that up Dan. The 3rd one is actually my attempt at recreating the art from the shirt that was supplied. The art that was supplied was not even close at all to the provided shirt. They would like to match the provided shirt which im not sure im capable of doing.

[Georgesip]

Dear FellipeHeitor

Now i'm looking for an utility like yours....
I've just downloaded
please GIVE ME ALL instruction how to install and use...
in a single directory or in the same path of QB64?
thank's for instruction....