Author Topic: Greyscale done as just black and white?  (Read 6989 times)

Offline Gilligan

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Re: Greyscale done as just black and white?
« Reply #45 on: November 10, 2011, 08:55:04 PM »
That's nice... and inspiring!


Offline Chadwick

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Re: Greyscale done as just black and white?
« Reply #46 on: November 10, 2011, 09:26:26 PM »
Feel inspired to go get some tequilla?

Just kidding.

Lots of folks I've met on the internet had a great amount of knowledge of this trade
long before I even attempted to find it's secrets on my own.
Always been an art-guy to some degree, but not production-knowledge guy.

I figured most of it out on my own, but once you reach a point, you want to ask questions.
And, I got some answers..which raised even more questions, haha.
It's all good though.

This group is great. Lots of good people.
I'm just throwin' .02 into the fray, hopefully I can pay something back.
Cheers.
 :)

Offline sweetts

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Re: Greyscale done as just black and white?
« Reply #47 on: November 10, 2011, 09:36:19 PM »
I just started playing with halftones, I will be testing out my stuff with this, maybe other corel users can use it or the pro's can let me know if it is junk  and I should do it another way.
RT Screen Designs
Willowick Ohio
www.rtscreendesigns.com

Offline Chadwick

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Re: Greyscale done as just black and white?
« Reply #48 on: November 10, 2011, 10:10:25 PM »
You did the 'rip' in photopaint, yes?
Your dots won't be as clean as photoshop if you do it the manual way.
( adobe has a better algorithm for that, unfortunately )
But,
Something still doesn't quite look right, 'cept, I'm kinda done thinkin' for the day.
I'll have another look later.

You're on the right track.

Offline Frog

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Re: Greyscale done as just black and white?
« Reply #49 on: November 11, 2011, 12:14:29 AM »
Sweetts, I don't really know how much you will get from the rough dots on that test sheet. I guess that they were made with a bitmap workaround.

What I suggested was making these squares but outputting them through CorelDRAW and your usual RIP (or Postscript printer for those still hanging on to that technology)
Clean dots in whatever line frequency your mesh dictates (or vice versa) Rule of thumb is mesh at at least 4.5 times the line frequency. The wider the ration, along with a neutral angle like 22.5 or 25, the less likely moire interference patterns will rear their ugly heads.
Chadwick suggests round when 40 or larger, many use elliptical.

A sheet like this, will print at the default line frequency (almost invisible small dots) unless you go into your graphics program, and it detects a post script output device, and allows you to use advanced settings to alter it.
I assume that this is also set in some RIPs.

That rug really tied the room together, did it not?

Offline Chadwick

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Re: Greyscale done as just black and white?
« Reply #50 on: November 12, 2011, 03:47:51 AM »
Is there a way I can attach a file?
Hosting images is easy, but I'd like to attach a PDF.
And I'd rather avoid a megaupload link or some cr*p like that.
( don't have any online space atm )

Perhaps I've overlooked something obvious.
Perhaps, I should just say f' it and go get a beer.
I think, perhaps, I'll go do just that.

Let me know.
Thanks.

Cheers.

Offline Frog

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Re: Greyscale done as just black and white?
« Reply #51 on: November 12, 2011, 07:44:21 AM »
Is there a way I can attach a file?
Hosting images is easy, but I'd like to attach a PDF.
And I'd rather avoid a megaupload link or some cr*p like that.
( don't have any online space atm )

Perhaps I've overlooked something obvious.
Perhaps, I should just say f' it and go get a beer.
I think, perhaps, I'll go do just that.

Let me know.
Thanks.

Cheers.
That rug really tied the room together, did it not?

Offline Chadwick

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Re: Greyscale done as just black and white?
« Reply #52 on: November 18, 2011, 07:52:29 PM »
Wow, that beer must've been a long ways away huh?
Thanks Andy ( I must be blind, haha ).
Let's see if this works.

Offline Chadwick

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Re: Greyscale done as just black and white?
« Reply #53 on: November 18, 2011, 08:02:04 PM »
 :)
Hey look at that.
Import it into Draw or Illy or whatever and have a look.
If you import it into photoshop, make sure the import is 720dpi, as that's the largest res bitmap contained within.

Print it out, you'll see.

* never do this stuff after a long week.
It looks like my 5% may actually be around 2%...f*ck it, I ain't goin' back in to fix it now.
Besides, below 10% is generally no-sane-man's land anyways, haha.
Cheers.
« Last Edit: November 18, 2011, 08:10:04 PM by Chadwick »

Offline Gilligan

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Re: Greyscale done as just black and white?
« Reply #54 on: November 18, 2011, 11:28:32 PM »
Wow... that's pretty cool Chadwick!

http://tinyurl.com/6mtgp7n

That is the test print on a shirt.

I used that based down navy to test... 10% curable reducer in that ink.

Printed once then again.  Then I printed that back that you see there with one stroke.  Then I printed another two stroke to see dot gain effects and such.

Interesting.

So... If I follow Dan's suggestion what should I be shooting for in my "spectrum"?



100% = black (obviously)
Tail (originally Drk Brown) =
Body (originally Lt Brown) =
Wattle (originally Red) =
Beak/Feet (originally Yellow) =

I'm a bit more confident in trying this bad boy out... at least as a test print.  Blanks are coming in Monday or (mostly likely) Tuesday.

« Last Edit: November 20, 2011, 05:46:48 PM by Gilligan »

Offline Chadwick

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Re: Greyscale done as just black and white?
« Reply #55 on: November 18, 2011, 11:53:17 PM »
Contrast is king.
Bling  is queen.

You're working with bare minimum.
Use all of what you can.

If you haven't printed yet, for God's sake man, fix that f'n text.
( sorry all, but that's gotta be said. hahaha )

Use regular old unmodified plastisol before you get into ink guru stuff.

USE THE SCHWARTZ!

« Last Edit: November 19, 2011, 12:10:46 AM by Chadwick »

Offline Gilligan

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Re: Greyscale done as just black and white?
« Reply #56 on: November 19, 2011, 12:16:45 AM »
That's just the art work they sent over.  I will be "redoing" it and fixing it to make it right.

These guys are great guys but they aren't artist. ;)

Oh, and I used the based down Navy because it was sitting around in a container near press from a previous job (retro faded look).  Figured it being based down my be good for going through the half-tones.  Plus, I'll likely not use it for anything else so why not use it for test prints like this. :)
« Last Edit: November 19, 2011, 12:19:45 AM by Gilligan »