How to make the Epson 4800 print real dark?

[BrazosDesigns]

Hi fellow printers,

I started off a couple of years ago with an Epson 1430, added a cis, and then purchased the 'hybrid screen ink' from inkjetcarts.us   
https://store.inkjetcarts.us/screen-positive-black-hybrid-ink-p4487.aspx
Prints were good.

About a year ago I was able to purchase a used Epson 4800 for about $350.  After a lot of head cleanings and getting it all working, I set it up for 200ml refillable cartridges with 1 black channel with the 'hybrid screen ink' and the other 7 with clear cleaning solution and moved to a 17" roll film.   I haven't used the 1430 again for screens until just recently with the 4800 had a clog and and I was in a bind. (working fine now).

The 1430 with the screen positive ink listed above printed darker on the same film than the 4800 with the same ink.  I print the 4800 with finest detail, high speed off, edge smoothing, and highest print features, but realized it wasn't as dark as the 1430 and that some of my fine detail issues may be because of the film isn't printed as opaque as needed. 

Does anyone have any special setting recommendations to make it print really dark?  Maybe my films are dark enough, but I realized recently I need to increase my exposure time on my fluorescent unit and darker films may help with edge definitions.

I use Corel Draw 8 and print regular separations straight off that, and for anything with an underbase or chokes/etc I use SimpleSeps 4.

Thanks for any suggestions,

Darren

[blue moon]

You need to get a RIP. FilmMaker is probably your best choice.

Pierre

[Sbrem]

Oh yes, get a RIP, and maybe work on upgrading your light source if you can.

Steve

[Stinkhorn Press]

the 4800 is a huge improvement over the 1430. but yes, settings at default, the 1430 will put more ink down. 4800 requires - right ink. and rip.
and yes, upgrade that flo unit ASAP. LED is an option. used MH units are always falling out the market as more people go to LED. they are mostly pretty easy to get back in factory spec.

there are inks that say they are UV blocking and ARE NOT.
it's not worth not printing with a known to be good option. chromaline accuink.
https://www.chromaline.com/product/accuink/

[Maxie]

Pierre  Do you prefer Filmaker to  Accurip?

[Northland]

You need to get a RIP. FilmMaker is probably your best choice.

Pierre

.... if you want to try Filmmaker, to see how much it improves the ink density..... you can download the full test version, free for 30 days .

[blue moon]

Pierre  Do you prefer Filmaker to  Accurip?

It has been a while since I did the head to head comparison, but FM had much cleaner output and is more customizeable. I still hear ppl bringing up issues that FM does not have, so in my eyes FM is better. It was much better few years back.

pierre

[blue moon]

if buying, pick it up from Scott Fresner, he runs a banner on the top. CadLink has no support (for all practical purposes) and Scott knows that RIP inside out and will take care of you.

pierre

[BrazosDesigns]

I thought SimpleSeps 4 would be a good sep and rip program, but everyone is recommending others.

I do have an older copy of Wasatch Softrip (6.0) that I got with the printer, but it won't work on windows 10.  I can upgrade to the newest version for $249 (or $299?).  Would this be a good rip program and help make dark films?  What does Wasatch Softrip do and what is it really good for?

Thanks,
Darren

[Frog]

I thought SimpleSeps 4 would be a good sep and rip program, but everyone is recommending others.

I do have an older copy of Wasatch Softrip (6.0) that I got with the printer, but it won't work on windows 10.  I can upgrade to the newest version for $249 (or $299?).  Would this be a good rip program and help make dark films?  What does Wasatch Softrip do and what is it really good for?

Thanks,
Darren

I am not at all familiar with the program, but does it include settings for ink deposit?

[BrazosDesigns]

Not sure as I can't get it to load until I pay for an upgrade :-(   I don't want to fork over $250-$300 if it isn't going to be worth it.   Thanks for the reply.

[Redeemed]

 OK  I'm not understanding! I'm actually looking into purchasing SimpleSeps Smart RIP 4.0 and what I'm reading is that it's a Rip and Separation Software. So why is everyone saying he needs a Rip, am I not understanding what this software is??

[Frog]

Go back to my post a couple of posts above. It may be a separation program with a RIP, but that RIP may not also have the ability to override the printer settings for control of ink deposit.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_image_processor

[Redeemed]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTtKD0upuJw&list=PL5-TSr51OI-7oFNvqPXqEAn404Oe8YceV
from the looks of this video it looks like a very dark button and rich black button so maybe no way to actually apply a setting or amount of ink manually.

[Sbrem]

though I'm not familiar with SimpleSeps, a lot of sep programs will RIP the image into halftones for you by using an action to convert each channel to bitmap mode in Photoshop, where you can set the line count, dot shape, and angle so you can send each channel separately to the printer, where as RIP like Filmaker and AccuRIP actually control the printer, and I THINK does a better job. But SimpleSeps might be different, I don't know. For most of us, a stand alone RIP runs the printer and is preferable. Of course, it does depend on your budget too.

Steve