How would you print this?

[XG Print]

So we finally got a good order from a nice sized gym in our area. We are printing the attached art in Next Level CVC ts and Next Level Tri Blend tanks. The design will of course be much smaller on the tanks. The customer wants the softest hand possible. I'm thinking water based on the CVC ts but I'm a little scared of the triblends because of our dryer. I could do those with low cure plastisol which will have a heavier hand but I can cure Under or at 300 to keep the shirts from shrinking up. We are having a tough time deciding which way to go here in the shop. Bad think is on the CVCs there are about 5 different colors some I'm concerned about bleeding. The triblends if I print with our low cure inks I don't think bleeding will be a problem. What would you do in your shop and how would you do it. Would you use the gray on the front as an underbase for the red or what. Thanks for the help guys. Normally a simple print for us but we don't often mess with these nicer shirts and we want to get this one right. Thanks

[zanegun08]

Discharge Base with water base on top should get nice results with a thin hand which softens after washing.

Even though the art is simple, these garments make this a difficult print.  I've had some recent great looking prints with 80/20 Base to White discharge under base, and water base inks on top, nice crisp bright colors with a soft hand that gets softer after washing.

If you aren't a water base shop, then you can do discharge base under plastisol for similar results which will give a softer hand than using a plastisol base.

[avogel]

I agree with zane. We are mostly a plastisol shop but lately we have been doing discharge base with waterbase on top on these tri blends. Really soft prints and the gym people love them.

[RICK STEFANICK]

The next level cvc 50 /50 will not discharge with acceptable results so keep that in mind whatever you do.

[Nation03]

The next level cvc 50 /50 will not discharge with acceptable results so keep that in mind whatever you do.

I believe these are 60/40. I've had decent results with discharge on them. Little fading after washing, but overall a nice look.

[XG Print]

The next level cvc 50 /50 will not discharge with acceptable results so keep that in mind whatever you do.

Would you run the CVCs with just straight low cure plastisol?

[Maff]

Some cvc colors will discharge great. The black cvc usually discharge to a light gray in our experiences.
If they want it soft as possible I'd go with discharge/waterbase, but  do a wash test to make sure it holds up

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[Stinkhorn Press]

front lends to solid/bright. back to muted. if they would be cool with that mismatch, we'd do 3 screen from (white UB) and a 2 screen back (single white/halftone ub screen) all plastisol.

mostly depends on what they expect/want in terms of brightness/wash-fastness vs feel

[3Deep]

We just printed a nice size order of next level and comfort colors mixed in, I went with One stroke inks plastisol ELT-S inks, cure temp is 280 and the print hand was pretty soft, might get even softer after washing, I like using water base and DC, but too much jumping through hoops with discharge inks with color shifts and we just don't have the correct dryer for large water base runs.  Give One stroke a call about there ELT inks

[Prince Art]

I'd use low cure plastisol, and use the highest-mesh screens each suitable for each color. I do this all the time, and even though it doesn't feel like DC, customers (gym customers included) always like them. (We print on more fashion tees than standard tees.)

We sometimes use ink that cures @ 300, but ELT-S gives great cure latitude & soft, stretchable prints. Especially good for Next Level; we've had AWFUL times in the past year trying to keep NL shirts from getting too hot & discoloring. If your dryer is short like ours, I recommend laying the shirts as flat as possible on the belt, not folding them. It means running big prints more slowly, but it's better than reprinting the order. (Did that more than once last year - and never had before for this reason!)

[DCSP John]

If it was me, I would try and sell my customer  on a vintage print...front and back.
Push the  inks through a 225 S.... heathered CVC shirts will look great with a retro vintage print.

John

[XG Print]

I'd use low cure plastisol, and use the highest-mesh screens each suitable for each color. I do this all the time, and even though it doesn't feel like DC, customers (gym customers included) always like them. (We print on more fashion tees than standard tees.)

We sometimes use ink that cures @ 300, but ELT-S gives great cure latitude & soft, stretchable prints. Especially good for Next Level; we've had AWFUL times in the past year trying to keep NL shirts from getting too hot & discoloring. If your dryer is short like ours, I recommend laying the shirts as flat as possible on the belt, not folding them. It means running big prints more slowly, but it's better than reprinting the order. (Did that more than once last year - and never had before for this reason!)

Yep this is where we are going.  I am using One stroke ELT-S inks. 

[Prince Art]

If it was me, I would try and sell my customer  on a vintage print...front and back.
Push the  inks through a 225 S.... heathered CVC shirts will look great with a retro vintage print.

John

Agreed... if it suits the customer & the art. We do "vintage" as often as possible. But some customers really want it to "pop", and some designs won't look right unless they're opaque.

[RICK STEFANICK]

The next level cvc 50 /50 will not discharge with acceptable results so keep that in mind whatever you do.

Would you run the CVCs with just straight low cure plastisol?

I like the results with chino based plastisol on like 200-230's with no underbase on the greys.