Size Tag Printing Suggestions

[humblymadebrand]

Hey guys so I am looking for any suggestions on tag printing. I've done my fair amount of them but I wanted to see if anyone with more experience had some tips.

We print all WB inks, and of course sometimes a tag print will bleed through the shirt to the outside. Are there things to consider to prevent this from happening, especially lighter color tees.

The things I've tried:
- Use a high mesh count screen
- Add more off contact
- Use more opaque core to thicken up the ink
- Use less pressure

Are there any other tips out there to help keep the tags consistent and less worry of pushing the ink through?

[ericheartsu]

weve also found speeding up prints help push less ink through. Specifically on WB ink.

[Colin]

On courser weave garments do not use fine lines - they will disappear/become illegible.

Use higher mesh screens like 225-330 mesh depending on boldness of print.

Do not try to make an opaque print!  You are just dropping in information, you are not trying to create a print masterpiece.... its a size tag.

Like Eric said:  Print speed as fast as you can.  You do not want the ink penetrating the garment at all.  This all ties in with the above 2 suggestions.

Cool Grey 6 is typically used for printing tags.  Its very difficult to see the print through a thin garment compared to black or white ink.

Hope this little bit helps

[Prince Art]

On courser weave garments do not use fine lines - they will disappear/become illegible.

Use higher mesh screens like 225-330 mesh depending on boldness of print.

Do not try to make an opaque print!  You are just dropping in information, you are not trying to create a print masterpiece.... its a size tag.

Like Eric said:  Print speed as fast as you can.  You do not want the ink penetrating the garment at all.  This all ties in with the above 2 suggestions.

Cool Grey 6 is typically used for printing tags.  Its very difficult to see the print through a thin garment compared to black or white ink.

Hope this little bit helps

Can't speak to WB per se, but based on thin plastisol, I second all of the above. Grey ink + high mesh = our default combo. Also, we try to keep our label prints small (I've seen some huge custom size/logo prints out in the wild - don't want to try to make those work) and avoid filled design elements wherever possible.

[Sbrem]

We do very little of this, so we prefer plastisol transfers. They will not bleed through.

Steve

[Maff]

We put a soft pad on the board under the tag area to help keep the print from driving in too deep. We use Stahls print perfect pad cut in a 4" square. It like a thick mouse pad. It's firm enough to get good contact but has enough give to keep the print top... if that makes sense.
We also use plastisol, 225s mesh and we print manually.

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[CBCB]

We put a soft pad on the board under the tag area to help keep the print from driving in too deep. We use Stahls print perfect pad cut in a 4" square. It like a thick mouse pad. It's firm enough to get good contact but has enough give to keep the print top... if that makes sense.
We also use plastisol, 225s mesh and we print manually.

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Very interesting! That stuff is pretty expensive though. Think an actual mouse pad or similar would work?


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[Maff]

We put a soft pad on the board under the tag area to help keep the print from driving in too deep. We use Stahls print perfect pad cut in a 4" square. It like a thick mouse pad. It's firm enough to get good contact but has enough give to keep the print top... if that makes sense.
We also use plastisol, 225s mesh and we print manually.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Very interesting! That stuff is pretty expensive though. Think an actual mouse pad or similar would work?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah possibly if it's dense enough, too soft may not work. It would be easy to test out and see results. The Stahls pads are very similar to a neoprene foam material, but a bit more dense

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