Poly White

[printguy]

Was hoping to get some feedback on printing on 100% polyester. We have used poly white, but have noticed that there's a considerable amount of ink buildup after print/flash/print. Any suggestions on how to minimize this? Thanks in advance.

[blue moon]

what do you mean when you say ink build up? On the screen, on the shirt . . .
what mesh, blades and equipment are you using?

pierre

[mk162]

he's probably talking about print thickness.

Most poly whites have a good amount of blowing agent in them, with a PFP they end up a bit heavy.

Your best bet would be ELT from OneStroke.

[printguy]

Yes, print thickness.

158 mesh / 70 duro / M&R auto

[RICK STEFANICK]

Was hoping to get some feedback on printing on 100% polyester. We have used poly white, but have noticed that there's a considerable amount of ink buildup after print/flash/print. Any suggestions on how to minimize this? Thanks in advance.

I am assuming when you say ink build up you mean ink thickness on the shirt. Poly whites are generally long bodied inks and thicker so depending on your screen mesh the finished print may be kind of heavy. Remember thicker doesn't mean less dye migration in fact it takes more heat and time to fully cure and can enhance the migration problem. Ink tends to sit on top on 100 percent poly performance garments. There are several options but our application on dark bleeders would be
barrier base- 110
flash
epic quick white-160

lighter non bleeders
white- 160
flash
white-200
but we are running standard mesh 20 newton screens and all air older challengers so that plays into our set-up

[blue moon]

not much beats Silicone for thin deposit, bright and durable. Order a sample and try it.

Synergy inks from Joe Clarke print pretty well. You could try his poly and see if you get a better/thinner deposit. As mk162 mentioned, OneStroke makes some really good stuff too!

My thinking was always that thicker is better for stopping bleeding, but after reading Rick's post, I have to rethink that!

pierre

[Frog]

My thinking was always that thicker is better for stopping bleeding, but after reading Rick's post, I have to rethink that!

pierre

Remembering that the "bleeding" issue is sublimation, dyes turning into gasses and re-solidifying after the transfer just like with dye sub transfers, (except the players are reversed) In this case, the color component which turns into a gas is in the garment, rather than on the transfer paper, transferring to the white ink media which is behaving like the white polyester shirt.
As Rick pointed out, thicker deposits require more heat, which is the co-conspirator in this nefarious operation, LOL!

If there is an advantage, it's probably that the resulting "tint" is a little more "diluted" on a thicker ink deposit.