DIY Triloc Clone

[paradoxsc]

I had to use a cutting wheel and a grinder to cut down the bolts and grind the metal smooth so it wouldn't hurt the screen.

[paradoxsc]

Its not pretty but it is functional.

[paradoxsc]

I also made this stop block for the pallet arm. used 5/16-18 hex bolts on it for easy adjustments

[paradoxsc]

I did also have to notch the front frame holder. I used a handheld battery operated bandsaw and only had to take about 1/2" x 1/2" out. Took about 3 minutes to do all 6. I almost got away without having to notch at all but it just barely clipped when I tabled up(maybe 1/8").

I WILL BE MAKING AN UNCUT VIDEO OF THE UNIT FROM THE ART ROOM TO THE PRESS to show you guys how it works. Right now I don't have any decent multi color jobs that would prove accuracy. I'm waiting for the next process order to come in so we can see how it works with dots at 45-55 lpi. 

[Stinkhorn Press]

apologies if I missed it, but what was the purpose of this project (really not being sarcastic, I would like to know)?
it DOES look like to me a fun way to spend some time, but what was the reasoning for not simply pick up a used triloc? 

[Gilligan]

apologies if I missed it, but what was the purpose of this project (really not being sarcastic, I would like to know)?
it DOES look like to me a fun way to spend some time, but what was the reasoning for not simply pick up a used triloc?

From my perspective, still not cheap, not plentiful (which is why they still aren't cheap) and still aren't really right.  You end up needing to do some fabricating to make them FPU vs carrier sheet.

Carrier sheets are just the worse idea ever and I am still unsure why M&R hasn't adapted the tri-lock into an FPU option yet.

[zanegun08]

I also made this stop block for the pallet arm. used 5/16-18 hex bolts on it for easy adjustments

You should make these look a little sexier and sell them.  The stopper blocks are like 80 dollars each if I recall correctly.

You only need one or two tri-loc, but each press needs a stopper block.

[paradoxsc]

apologies if I missed it, but what was the purpose of this project (really not being sarcastic, I would like to know)?
it DOES look like to me a fun way to spend some time, but what was the reasoning for not simply pick up a used triloc?

A used triloc is going to run $1000 - $1500 or more and are hard to find. I built a better mouse trap for about $500 all in. It took me about 3 days collectively working on it only a few hours each day.

PLUS my unit does not use carrier sheets at all. It has an inverted jig. It's cheaper, more accurate, and has less steps than the original triloc system.

[paradoxsc]

I also made this stop block for the pallet arm. used 5/16-18 hex bolts on it for easy adjustments

You should make these look a little sexier and sell them.  The stopper blocks are like 80 dollars each if I recall correctly.

You only need one or two tri-loc, but each press needs a stopper block.

Yeah, i'm not really looking to get into fabricating and selling equipment. I don't want to compete with the big guys, they would squash me like a bug. I am, however, open to giving instructions to anyone who wants to build one for themselves. I think that stop block took me 10-20 mins to make.

[kingscreen]

Did you find a source for the hat extrusion or did you recycle an old one?

[paradoxsc]

Did you find a source for the hat extrusion or did you recycle an old one?

Nah I bought it from m&r. Bill foust also has it in 12ft rips but he was too busy to chat about pricing and I needed it quick. I'm not sure if the extrusion is proprietary or not so I'm weary about calling an extrusion company and trying to get it made. Plus I think I would have to buy 40000 lbs to be able to get it made.

[jsheridan]

You got my approval!
Love me some nice metalworking.

You can get bernzomatic aluminum brazing rods from any Home Depot or lowes. Use map gas and the T400 or T800 torch.

Keep the plans handy.. I may be needing a custom tri loc or 4 in the near future.

[jamielampert]

Do you have a master list of all the materials/plans for building one?  I have one that I made but this looks like a better piece and I cant justify thousands of dollars to m and r.
[/quote]

Yeah, i'm not really looking to get into fabricating and selling equipment. I don't want to compete with the big guys, they would squash me like a bug. I am, however, open to giving instructions to anyone who wants to build one for themselves. I think that stop block took me 10-20 mins to make.
[/quote]

[alan802]

Are the stop blocks on the FPU raised up so that the screens hit the stop blocks at the exact same height when on the FPU and the pallet jig?  Couldn't tell from the pics.  I made our first modified triloc where the FPU and stop blocks were flat on the table and that wasn't very accurate with roller frames.  May be fine with statics.  A roller frame has 3 extruding corner notches and having the stop blocks flat on the table causes the "shirt side roller notch" to be touching the stop blocks on the pallet jig on press but the "ink side" notches touching the FPU stop blocks.  The roller frame corners are not perfect and I had a lot of micro work until I flipped the M&R FPU unit/master stop block frame upside down and then lifted it up about 1.25-1.5" (can't recall right now) and now we have more accurate setups than a friendly competitors shop that uses CTS and a triloc pallet jig.  I spent several years playing around with regi systems and it's the tiny details that made the difference between an accurate system and one I could have had just as accurate if I'd have used 2x4's (yeah, my first one was mostly wooden components, yet it worked better than the Vastex system we bought).

I have to think that if there is any imperfection on the statics that deviate even a few degrees from 90 with the square tubing that you'd have skewed results due to the opposite sides of the frame touching the stop blocks on the FPU versus the pallet jig.  Like I said earlier, it's the details that matter.  In my opinion, when it comes to the regi system, if it's off more than a hairline then it might as well be an 1/8", it's just as easy for me to dial it in from that distance as it is a hairline with a good micro system like what we have on our G3 and RPM.   

[FluffyDog6]

Also, I'm thinking about TIG welding my stops and springs to the jigs but i'm worried about the heat warping the metal do you have a better way to attach stuff so it wont move?

Look for VHB tape made by 3M.

Among other things, it is used to hold aluminum panels on trailers together.