Look! Another "How would you print..."

[Hey Monkey]

How would y'all print this?

1. Anvil 980 Neon Blue 100% Ringspun Cotton
2. I am an all water-based shop
3. I do discharge
4. I am on a manual press

[tonypep]

That neon blue gets a poor DC rating sorry this needs to be plastisol

[Sbrem]

We are not a WB shop, so, the dark blue, base white, flash, print the rest of the top colors, flash, and highlight white. And you can take Tony's advice to the bank...

Steve

[Hey Monkey]

Appreciate it y'all!

Well, plastisol isn't even an option. I am a WB shop by choice and it is what the client wants. So let's run from there...

[mimosatexas]

HSA?  Those colors will need to be underbased somehow.  DC and/or "opaque" WB ink isn't going to look good.

[Sbrem]

Not to discourage you, but how many hours and shirts are you prepared to lose trying to make it work? You could always farm it out, and of course, explain to your customer why it won't work with the WB or DC. Not everything can be printed with every ink, wouldn't that be great though? Good luck with it...

Steve

[DannyGruninger]

Yeah hsa all day for that.

Print flash print flash white base - underbase the yellow and red. If all shirts are that blue I'd try to talk client into using that for the blue in glasses. If not it's really not a big deal just underbase it.

Purple color has no base print that.
Red
Blue - you can use a small squeegee so your not touching the red.
Yellow

If you do this right you can run all those colors with hsa wet on wet. Have to use the right ink and additives but good s thread mesh, fast print strokes and good ink this would look perfect with hsa. Luckily here with the oval I can run 9 flashes so I'd run a couple bases then flash every color and hit all the outlines last, add the iron so it's all flat same height lol that's how we would handle it

[willy35]

How many shirt do you have to print ?

[Hey Monkey]

Yeah hsa all day for that.

Print flash print flash white base - underbase the yellow and red. If all shirts are that blue I'd try to talk client into using that for the blue in glasses. If not it's really not a big deal just underbase it.

Purple color has no base print that.
Red
Blue - you can use a small squeegee so your not touching the red.
Yellow

If you do this right you can run all those colors with hsa wet on wet. Have to use the right ink and additives but good s thread mesh, fast print strokes and good ink this would look perfect with hsa. Luckily here with the oval I can run 9 flashes so I'd run a couple bases then flash every color and hit all the outlines last, add the iron so it's all flat same height lol that's how we would handle it

Yes, the blue is the shirt color. It just shows as different in the image. So PFPF White Underbase for the Red and Yellow, Print the dark keyline color as is. No White highlight pass? You think the PFPF white underbase would do the trick for the white?

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I am determined to do this. I am using Green Galaxy inks all the way around btw. 118 shirts.

[DannyGruninger]

No hw needed if you print a good base flash print again flash. You should have a razor thin smooth flat surface with hsa white to print on and with no dot gain with hsa the colors can stay super sharp where a highlight white is not needed. Most of the best hsa printing I've done or seen combine really good underbasess where hw isn't needed due to usually 2 sometimes 3 bases. That yellow looks to have a touch of a white pastel in it so to gain a bit of opacity I suggest adding 1% spacepuff to the red and yellow(mix some comet white into the yellow as well) and 5% slipstream additive to the purple color as that's a silicon wetting agent which helps with the wow. You should be able to print this without that but those are a couple additions I use when faced with that. I'm not a great manual printer by any means but all the ink stuff should apply. Mix enough ink for the entire job but keep adding ink every so often so nothing dries up on you. Good luck with proper pre planning you should be able to execute and crush it! Let us know the results

[ZooCity]

I think Danny has the right idea for printing this for your shop.  I might not run that much HSA WOW on an HSA base, really depends on a lot of factors, but worth a try. 

On the manual, worst case scenario, you hit that base 3x and carry on.  If you triple hit the UB you'll likely want to be flashing between the top colors. 

Yes, knockout the blue in the glasses if possible.  I would insist upon this as our presses aren't big enough to handle this without a revolve if you include blue.  And we don't revolve HSA here unless it's one head printing, way too dry for that.

We would print this with 2 UBs of the Matsui, flashing between each then DkPurple/black - Red - Yellow - Flash - Hilite White.  Not ideal but you need an excessive number of heads and flashes to ideally print HSA ink.

[bpfohler]

 I'm curious- you'll do discharge but not plastisol?  There are at least as many, if not more health concerns with discharge printing as there are with plastisol.  I refuse to do discharge.

[Hey Monkey]

I'm curious- you'll do discharge but not plastisol?  There are at least as many, if not more health concerns with discharge printing as there are with plastisol.  I refuse to do discharge.

Absolutely. I am also a designer first or foremost and cannot stand how plastisol looks or feels. I won't even wear shirts that are printed with it. Like wearing some heavy plastic patch. Not to mention the universal demand for WB & Discharge in our area.

[CBCB]

Absolutely. I am also a designer first or foremost and cannot stand how plastisol looks or feels. I won't even wear shirts that are printed with it. Like wearing some heavy plastic patch. Not to mention the universal demand for WB & Discharge in our area.

As the comments show, this is a tricky print with the garment and ink colours chosen. As a designer for screen-printing there is definitely some responsibility on our end to set realistic customer expectations.

I run into this a lot with the 'designers' our clients hire. A designer should consider the process and the printability of your design from step one in the process.

But when they don't, that's when we get the fun prints like these ones!

Sounds like discharge is a bigger requirement than the blue shirt. My first instinct when I see something like this is to help cater the design towards our manual press / process.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Hey Monkey]

Absolutely. And I have. There is no expectation that this will be a perfectly flat and solid print a-la plastisol. He knows and I have educated him on how this will transfer over to a WB print. I appreciate all the advice and time you took to give it and take it all very seriously and am forming my plan of attack.

Thank you!