Recommendations for Wilflex White?

[Prince Art]

Need a recommendation for your favorite Wilflex* white. Specifically want one that cures at 300 (or below). Needs to do acceptable double-duty as base & top white, on cotton/poly blend. Printing on old-ish Brown auto (I'll post about that some other time), but suffice to say that max flood & stroke speed is limited - probably medium-to-slow compared to a lot of other machines. Pressure control is also pretty basic. Looking for something that clears the screen well within those parameters. Opacity is important, fast flash & softer hand are nice bonuses.

(I know favorites whites have been covered before - researching now actually. Just in a time crunch, trying to find something good ASAP.)


*Specifically want Wilflex, as the order includes youth items & I already have their CPSIA compliance documentation. (And we're getting ready to switch to one of their mixing systems, I want to try them. We've been Rutland & One Stroke up to this point.)

[Northland]

Need a recommendation for your favorite Wilflex* white. Specifically want one that cures at 300 (or below). Needs to do acceptable double-duty as base & top white, on cotton/poly blend. Printing on old-ish Brown auto (I'll post about that some other time), but suffice to say that max flood & stroke speed is limited - probably medium-to-slow compared to a lot of other machines. Pressure control is also pretty basic. Looking for something that clears the screen well within those parameters. Opacity is important, fast flash & softer hand are nice bonuses.

(I know favorites whites have been covered before - researching now actually. Just in a time crunch, trying to find something good ASAP.)




I'm a fan of Wilflex Epic Quick white: (but probably not suitable for a 300F cure):
Flashes fast
Good opacity
Good fiber mat down
Good bleed resistance
Nice matte finish
Prints well thru S-mesh (125 to 225)
Price is mid-range

Here's the product link:
http://www.polyone.com/files/resources//11835PFW_Epic_Quick_White-16.pdf

[Prince Art]

Thanks! The tech sheet says it cures at 300, so I'll put it on the short list.

[Rockers]

Wilflex Epic Sprint White, cures at 320F though.

[Stinkhorn Press]

Quick and Sprint were our go-to whites for a couple of years (before Synergy). They're still here for specific things. Not sure about cure temp tho.

[Nation03]

Epic Lava LB white is my favorite at the moment. However, it's a 320 cure I believe.

[Prince Art]

Researched this stuff a bunch yesterday - it turns out that the majority of Epic inks cure at 300, with a few like Performance curing at 290. In fact, Warrior LB is the only one I saw that cures at 320. (I did not look at cotton-only inks, however.) If you do a lot of finicky fashion blends like we do, you might want to check the specs on your ink - you might be able to get away with less heat. And less heat= fewer problems for a lot of what we do.

Now, questions:
For those who have used them, how would you rate Performance? And Epic Bright Tiger? (Not Classic B.T.) Compared to Quick, what should we expect in terms of ink viscosity & final hand?

[ZooCity]

We use Wiflex Epic Sprint, Quick and Performance.

Sprint and Quick are sister inks, same formula with Quick having a proprietary blowing agent (not quite a puff but it does "stack" a little higher than a cotton white) to prevent sublimation on blends.  They both cure at 320˚F, like the majority of Wilflex's inks do.

Performance cures at 290˚F and has more stretch properties.


If you want a 300˚range white, check out the new one Wilflex made to compete with One Stroke's ELT.

Last off, if you can run low temp curing whites on your poly/cotton blends do it.  Something has changed for the worse in the way that blends are dyed and we've been forced to use Performance White as the UB on many of them.  A standard low bleed isn't enough fire power for security these days.

[ZooCity]

Wow.  I just googled the tds's for these inks and Prince Art, you are correct they're listing 300˚ and not 320˚.....been using and curing these inks at 320˚ for many years and not sure when that number changed.  Going to look into that.

[Prince Art]

Wow.  I just googled the tds's for these inks and Prince Art, you are correct they're listing 300˚ and not 320˚.....been using and curing these inks at 320˚ for many years and not sure when that number changed.  Going to look into that.

Yeah, I was pleasantly surprised. We've been using Low Cure Additive just to get our Rutlands down to 300. Will be glad to get away from that.

I have my eye on the Epic Single LC, too. We've used a lot of the ELT-S, but aren't happy with the opacity. Everything else about it is great (well, except for price & ship distance); but the opacity just isn't high enough to make it our go-to white.

[Biverson]

I just tried the new Epic Bright Tiger white. I really liked it but when used on some Next Level CVC and J. America Sport Lace hoodie had some Dye Migration and wasn't super bright. I'd really like to find a new Lo bleed. I've got Union EZ Print but don't like the hand and is t treat for under basing. Diamond White is like tar after the Epic Bright Tiger.


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[Prince Art]

Alright, Quick is on the way, along with a quart of Single LC to try out. Thanks for all the input!

[TH Apparel]

we use sprint white for our everyday printing.
the newer bright tiger for tri blends.
polywhite for hoodies, and certain other crap items.  We have to use a roller on the polywhite or it always feels rough.
performance white for anything that we feel is going to be a bleeder.

We also use one stroke white for certain items also(with their black ub on sublimated goods)

I feel like that's too many whites.

[Prince Art]

we use sprint white for our everyday printing.
the newer bright tiger for tri blends.
polywhite for hoodies, and certain other crap items.  We have to use a roller on the polywhite or it always feels rough.
performance white for anything that we feel is going to be a bleeder.

We also use one stroke white for certain items also(with their black ub on sublimated goods)

I feel like that's too many whites.

What's the opacity & hand like when using Epic Birght Tiger on triblends? And what meshes & print procedure are you typically running? We're always trying to keep those as soft as possible - people were happy with "vintage' style prints on triblend for years, but recently the trend has been opaque. (Especially with gyms, but others too.)

[Rockers]

we use sprint white for our everyday printing.
the newer bright tiger for tri blends.
polywhite for hoodies, and certain other crap items.  We have to use a roller on the polywhite or it always feels rough.
performance white for anything that we feel is going to be a bleeder.

We also use one stroke white for certain items also(with their black ub on sublimated goods)

I feel like that's too many whites.

What's the opacity & hand like when using Epic Birght Tiger on triblends? And what meshes & print procedure are you typically running? We're always trying to keep those as soft as possible - people were happy with "vintage' style prints on triblend for years, but recently the trend has been opaque. (Especially with gyms, but others too.)

We used just yesterday the Epic Lave Low Bleed White and the Bright Tiger White on yellow/orange tri blends. Well the print looks all vintage now. As if the white has faded after being exposed to the sun for many years. After that I used the Lave Low Bleed on some black 100% poly dry fit tees and the print came out proper white.