Pique - WOW?

[Frog]

We know the deal, or at least the way I see it. Pique is less than perfect for screen printing, better suited for embroidery (often also because of the generally higher price)
Some clients insist though, and I am looking at a two color print. I am thinking of taking the extra step and flashing because I figure due to the texture, zigs from one print may not line up perfectly with the zags on the next.
Thoughts?

[jsheridan]

Depends on the pique. Is it smoother or deep valleys.
I've used a low mesh first down white with no off contact and no flood just to fill the voids first. Flash then hit with a 160 mesh white to make it flat and smooth, flash that and colorize it.

It's extra steps but makes the finished print look smooth.

[Frog]

Wow! That's pretty thorough.

[whitewater]

I've used a touch of the UNion 3d ink mixed with whatever color you would want. I did it on maroon pique polos. Used a 110 p/f/p. 2 color job.

Came out smooth as a babys bottom.

Killer likes puff.

[Denis Kolar]

This should work for pique too

How To Screen Print Tee Shirts: Sleeves & Ribbed Tank Tops

Get gallon of WM white, it has some puff in it. At first I loved the ink, but then I have realized that Alan was right, it gets too puffy for detailed work.
I need to get another white for halftones, I will use WM for ribbed tank tops and spot jobs with big white areas.

[Frog]

Thanks
All good suggestions, but only John's  method addressed my concern of printing two colors on a light pique shirt, wet on wet, because of the textured edges picked up by the next screen, and then offset to the next shirt.

On a dozen or two shirts, John's method is pretty involved and would add a lot of cost, and it too would only be wet on wet after the smoothing "body filler" is added.

The shirts have arrived, Gray Port K 320's, and they are not as rough as I had feared, but nonetheless, I expect extra care will be needed.
I don't have puff additive, or 3D additive, and the shirts are due Tuesday, so will just make the best of it, flashing between the black and the orange.

I will use the technique of a first heavy stroke, driving the ink below the peaks, and into the valleys followed by a lighter stroke, not dissimilar to the way I learned to do whites, though counter to the "keep it on the surface" mantra of plastisol in general.

[ZooCity]

On 2 doz, just flash 'em and be done with it.  Unless you have some art that actually needs to be printed wet-on-wet, no need to stress about not using that method right?  It's a little extra time but not too much on a short run.   If I had 600 of these to bang out I'd be looking into my method a little harder.