Two Color Numbers on Dark Poly Garments

[Be3305]

We just started getting into numbering for teams. We are a contract shop and have developed a new relationship with a high volume team focused account. We offer 1-2 color numbering for tees and jerseys. Our biggest obstacle so far has been individual numbers with two colors on dark garments (base + 1st color + outline color). With little experience in this area, we are trying to find the most efficient way to make this happen. Right now we have a job on dark garments that has 4" numbers in maroon and yellow on the front and 8" numbers with the same colors on the back. 35 total unique numbers. Just curious how others might approach this without destroying the screen room?

[Dottonedan]

We do the same in our shop. Numbers. 4" front, 8" back.  Very time consuming. Our market is schools so we gotta do it.

Our guy will print with no underbase. 1-2 strokes, slide it down to the Flash on the end, then another 2-3 strokes. very manual process. Not on a round press, but on a numbering machine. We will be getting a new one that registers better. This one we are on, the guy has to manually align each one very carefully.

So no base white at all.   Print the color enough so that it becomes opaque is all they do. Yes, they are bullet proof, but the customers kind of expect that from numbers.

[Scobey Peterman]

I print poly numbers almost every day.

I made back ground / fore ground screens.  4 in. 6in. 8 in. 10 in

Print the white twice, cool and the print the inside of the number.

Makes for a very sharp looking number because it has white (or gold) under it.

If you have any questions, call me  423-337-3439

[aauusa]

we are a sport shop also and we used to direct print our number as well.  But we found it was much faster for us to do transfer numbers made in house.

we offer a stock number which we have preburned on manual screens which are done as a 1, 2 or 3 color.  27 screens for the 8" set.  these screens are used only for numbers.  we can print how ever many transfer sheets we need for each number and then clean the screens if we have different colors needed (home and away) then print the send set of numbers.  we can print a full set of team numbers in less than 1 hour (home and away).    for the 4 inch numbers we bur them as we need them.  I will most likely burn the numbers as needed 14 as a 14 and such.  you can fit almost a full team on 2 sheets of transfer paper and you use 4 screens if 2 colors.   

we use  cold peel paper and one stroke powder adhesive.  this combination works the best on the performance shirts most teams use.

another benefit is that you do not need an underbase for the dark shirts as the ink lays on the shirt and not in the threads of the shirt

[Squeegie]

We use Transfer Express screened numbers...Goof Proof.
Two color numbers go down in one application, one sheet.
Very quick application and the sheets make it easy to align double digit numbers.

We used to go with the Stahls numbers.  Two color numbers are two pcs that you need to align for every digit.
This made it a much slower process for us.

[Dottonedan]

IN a shop where we are all athletic prints, My employer (who's also a coach, lives and breaths sports) Has a personal preference. He doesn't like the vinyl or transfers. Prefers a print. Says the others are too "shiny' and just doesn't look good to him.  I've heard that before from Russell customers as well. BUt believe me, they are ALL very close minded, stick to the same ole thing. Same design, Same look. They even like bullet proof on the numbers. Don't give them any soft hand tender foot numbers.

[FleekT21]

I too would like to hear how some of you do this process. We have been using transfers and thermal for almost 15 years. A nicely printed number will outlast a transfer any day on durability. We only run an auto and looking at how to dive into direct print numbers- 2-14" with 1 and 2 color inks- possible few different font choices. I like the inline system and the new magnetic n-series or whatever it is as options. I never hear of people running numbers on an auto, and I can see why. However, I feel there is a way to print without being to cumbersome. We would like to print high-end numbers that don't have to be bulletproof. Even if we purchase a manual, what are your favorite systems to tackle a top end number print?

[numbercruncher]

Been out of printing #s for awhile - over the years Scobey has provided lots of sound # printing information. I'd take him up on his offer of advice. Good fortune...

[Frog]

I too would like to hear how some of you do this process. We have been using transfers and thermal for almost 15 years. A nicely printed number will outlast a transfer any day on durability. We only run an auto and looking at how to dive into direct print numbers- 2-14" with 1 and 2 color inks- possible few different font choices. I like the inline system and the new magnetic n-series or whatever it is as options. I never hear of people running numbers on an auto, and I can see why. However, I feel there is a way to print without being to cumbersome. We would like to print high-end numbers that don't have to be bulletproof. Even if we purchase a manual, what are your favorite systems to tackle a top end number print?

While I also may prefer directly printed numbers for those who do enough to justify the special equipment and/or set-ups, I do not believe your statement can be backed up without the qualifier of "poorly done transfer". I have never had a properly prepared and applied plastisol transfer fail, and when  vinyl transfer does, it is also almost certainly due to "operator error"

[sportsshoppe]

just curious what kind of ink and which numbering machine do you have? We use 1-Stroke on our 2 color numbers and have an inline numbering machine. The 1-stroke can be ordered where it does not need a base and looks nice. It's expensive but well worth it, PFP and its done. And they have it for Poly.   Good luck

[FleekT21]

While I also may prefer directly printed numbers for those who do enough to justify the special equipment and/or set-ups, I do not believe your statement can be backed up without the qualifier of "poorly done transfer". I have never had a properly prepared and applied plastisol transfer fail, and when  vinyl transfer does, it is also almost certainly due to "operator error"
[/quote]

Thanks for replying. I should have elaborated on the statement. Transfers compared to direct print for contact sports and commercial washing- football and soccer teams at the college level are perfect examples. Our transfers (stahls or FM expressions) usually breakdown before the shirt compared to a solid printed plastisol print after 20-30 washes and hard use. I have been doing transfers for 15 years the correct way, I'm just looking to improve the overall quality, longevity, and durability. If we can make our own transfers better than what the leaders in the industry can, I am all for that too! Either way, we just need a more durable method than stahls transfers.