Wet on Wet printing on top of solid white underase...tip, tricks, thoughts,

[acescreen]

Been meaning to post about this for a long while....just wanted to see how you talented printers handle printing solid colors on top of solid white underbases especially a p/f/p white base to get max opacity or super bright colors.   We have always done just fine with wet on wet printing on lights garments no base, even printing 9 colors wet on wet and a flsh only before the black with no problems. Discharge base and lots of colors wet on wet no problems, simulated process wet on wet no problems.... but we always seem to struggle with even a 2-3 wet on wet colors printed on top of a solid white base. The first colors down seem to smear, pickup to much on following screens or have the pattern of the screen peel leaving irregular patterns or white areas... hope that makes sense. Is this why people orbit or revolve so much? I just feel like we should be able to get more wet on wet done with out so much hassle or flashing. Again this is refering to bright solid colors printed on a solid white plastisol base. I use wilfex epic inks, and we use retensionable screens kept at about 25n, squeegees are mostly tripple duro 70/90/70.  I like a bit more off contact than most and we are printing on a Workhorse Sabre.

Maybe I just need to be ok with revolving more? Attached are a few pics of jobs we've done recently that we had to flash more than I thought necessary.

Run for Hope print 6 color:
-white print/print
flsh

-teal pms match
-red pms match
-green pms match
flsh

hi-whtie
blk

On this setup teal and red were picking up quite a bit on green screen leaving less than clean results so we added a flsh to keep a cleaner look

Haste Print 4 color white + 3 pms blue matches:
white p/f/p/f  (using flash back)
lightest blue
medium blue
flsh
dark blue- again the pickup on the lightest blue looked a bit spotty, not too bad so we let it ride but I'm always after the cleanest print possible.

Lots of guys ask why we p/f/p/f....answer is simply I've tried using s-mesh, different pressures and squeegee blades, print speeds and lots of whites and for our shop and certain jobs we do there is just no substitute for a print flash print on base and adding top colors. Prints look super clean and our clients notice the difference and it keeps them coming back.

Any and all advice, input is much appreciated!

[1964GN]

I don't have a lot of time but p/f/p/f the underbase is a ton of ink (that may be hurting you). On the hope job we would step on the black and run the highlight last (we try to never step on white) OR change the run order depending on each colors coverage and run the highlight just before the 2nd flash. Least amount of coverage gets stepped on, most amount of coverage doesn't.

Most of our Epic colors run fine wet, others don't so much, so we might adjust that thinking depending on the inks we are using as well.

On the hope job we "might"

-white
-flash
-teal
-highlight
-flash
-green
-red
-blk

[mimosatexas]

Not an auto guy, but you should rarely if ever be pfp your base with the right variables (ink, mesh, print speed, pressure, etc) unless your printing with super thin Flo colors on top or the shirt is excessively fuzzy.

[acescreen]

I looked over my job notes and we actually ran the black first before the base white on the Run for Hope job, we do this when black appears to sit under the full image, not our standard printing practice but it works for us on occasion and leaves one less variable at the end of the print order. Black was shot on 305.