Waterbase emulsion suggestion

[Denis Kolar]

Hi there.
I need a suggestion for a good performing waterbase emulsion that is readily available and not crazy expensive
I use Chromaline CTR for my emulsion. nothing fancy as far as the artwork, just a regular everyday stuff. No high end prints.
Why change it? I have a decent opportunity to print some waterbase stuff. Repeat work, maybe 50-60 prints maybe 8-10 times a year.
Some of it is pretty detailed work, but only black in on a light substrate. Maybe 230 or 300 screens.

Not planing to switch to waterbase or discharge as of right now.

Thanks

[ericheartsu]

We really love the Saati PHU2. It's formulated to expose a little slower, so it can handle detail a bit more than the PHU.

[SI]

We are using PHU in conjuction with our LED exposure.  But, if you are wanting a rock solid emulsion that works well without post exposing  Murakami SP-1400 was what we used before going with the LED.  Dirt cheap and can run thousands without needing to post expose

[mimosatexas]

Sp1400 is my everyday emulsion. Use it for every ink type without issues. Holds great detail. Cheap as crap.

[tonypep]

Generally speaking I always put pricing way down on the priority list with most chemistry and place performance on the very top. Its just too risky for a production house.  That said, if one comes across  product that works across the board  that is of course a bonus.

[brandon]

We really love the Saati PHU2. It's formulated to expose a little slower, so it can handle detail a bit more than the PHU.

True. We switched to it as well awhile back and it is nice. Has a higher solids content too. We never really had breakdown but now we have none. Recently we had two HSA screens that took a few thousand beatings, washed out and cataloged, used for a few thousand more beatings and cataloged three more times before they started showing wear.

[ericheartsu]

We really love the Saati PHU2. It's formulated to expose a little slower, so it can handle detail a bit more than the PHU.

True. We switched to it as well awhile back and it is nice. Has a higher solids content too. We never really had breakdown but now we have none. Recently we had two HSA screens that took a few thousand beatings, washed out and cataloged, used for a few thousand more beatings and cataloged three more times before they started showing wear.

also, still really cheap.

[Denis Kolar]

Thanks guys. Forgot to mention that I still use Nuarc 40-1K Mercury exposure unit.
It exposes Chromaline CRT in 90 seconds. So, I had no need to upgrade. I'm a small shop with maybe 20 screens/month.

Also, is there an expiration on those emulsions. The longer life time the better. That is my only customer that would require waterbase, so the quart might last me a 6-8 months.

Thanks again

[Colin]

I used a nuarc 3140 for the last 4 years, its a 1k metal halide.  Used the Saati PHU for 3 of those.  Respectable burn times.  Good water resistance with proper exposure/exposing longer than "normal".  Post expose if you want to catalog your screens.

The PHU has the standard 1 year shelf life.

[Maff]

Can anyone confirm if CryoCoat is just a green version of PHU2?

We've been using CryoCoat for the past year since going LED and it's been working great. Although we did have a few random discharge screen breakdowns... even with post exposing... never figured it out... Otherwise it's been great.

[Atownsend]

We use the HVP from Murakami. SBQ, 42% solids. $60 / gallon @ river city. We don't do much WB, but when we do we apply MS hardener to make the stencil water resistant. If you don't use much emulsion and want to avoid the short shelf life of a diazo emulsion I think it is a good choice, but I have not used the other emulsions mentioned either.

[ericheartsu]

Can anyone confirm if CryoCoat is just a green version of PHU2?

We've been using CryoCoat for the past year since going LED and it's been working great. Although we did have a few random discharge screen breakdowns... even with post exposing... never figured it out... Otherwise it's been great.

if not the PHU2, then the PHU.