Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas Edison
Is it me, or is this essentially gaffers tape? I've found gaffers tape locally at a theatre supply for around $13 per roll... but I'm not sure they are the same.
Quote from: im_mcguire on January 11, 2017, 10:51:00 PMIs it me, or is this essentially gaffers tape? I've found gaffers tape locally at a theatre supply for around $13 per roll... but I'm not sure they are the same.gaffers tape works. We have some on our frames now. Better than some of the other tapes we've tried.Gorilla tape works great if you're like us and don't retension as often as you should. cost is about 8.50/roll for 35 yards.
Quote from: TH Apparel on January 12, 2017, 07:58:17 AMQuote from: im_mcguire on January 11, 2017, 10:51:00 PMIs it me, or is this essentially gaffers tape? I've found gaffers tape locally at a theatre supply for around $13 per roll... but I'm not sure they are the same.gaffers tape works. We have some on our frames now. Better than some of the other tapes we've tried.Gorilla tape works great if you're like us and don't retension as often as you should. cost is about 8.50/roll for 35 yards.Do those leave adhesive when pealed off? I like the Polyken stuff but it sure is pricy. But I guess considering the size of the roll, it isn't terrible.
Gaffers tape leaves no residue. It is pretty great stuff.
Dang I’m pretty sure they had m3 plastic as well. Jay said they spent a bunch of money getting all of the tooling made to extrude to plastic, but they never sold that well for them.I didn’t realize that the Newman protectors didn’t have the flange. Those were always to spendy and out of our budget.Check out that CW laser though… just straight vaporize the tape, prob wouldn’t even have to pull it haha
Rise from the grave.We switched to Gorilla Tape ~6 months ago as getting the correct Polyken product in was annoying at best.All was well, it's durable and survives reclaim. But.....It leaves a gnarly adhesive that makes re-stretching a nightmare. All up in the channels, can't get the locking strips outor back in, and softening corners? Forget about it. The kids are not happy. Not happy at all.Was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for removing the adhesive, aside from the obvious?I'm not a big fan of strong solvents in the shop when a better or different product will work.What I'm hoping (dreaming) of ideally is something we can put in a dip tank, soak for a week, and then pressure wash off.We have quite a few of these already, and a growing number over the next year or more. Switching back to Polyken.