EOM using Uni-Kote

[toofastnichols]

My shop recently purchased an M&R Uni-Kote, first of all let me say I love this machine; makes coating screens more efficient as it allows me to multitask. My problem is I feel like the Uni-Kote is not creating a proper stencil on the screen. Let me first say that we set this machine up ourselves, so that may be part of the problem. I do not have an instrument to measure my EOM and am not sure of how else I could measure it. Is there anything I am missing? Is this a common problem? I use the rounded side of trough, I coat one on the print side and one the squeegee side, then one by itself on the squeegee side. The speed I have at 60 and the pressure at about 15-17 psi. Any suggestion as to how I can improve my stencil coating wet on wet?

Thanks in advance,

Chris N.
 

[DannyGruninger]

Your speed is way too fast. Slow it down to around 25-30 and you can run a 1/1 method. A slower 1/1 building proper eom is a quicker workflow then running fast 2/1.

What emulsion and mesh counts(include thread diameter) are you using? Knowing that I along with others can suggest some settings. Been using the uni kote for a couple years now and it's awesome

[toofastnichols]

The Mesh Counts we use are 110/80, 125/70, 155/64, 175/55, 200/55, 230/48, and 305/40. For emulsion we use Chormaline ChromaBlue Pure Photopolymer Emulsion.

[IntegriTees]

how do you control the speed?  I just see the dial for psi and I have it at 16.

just now getting into looking at eom after the virus seminar.

Checked my 156s uncoated and got 88, coated 125, that puts my eom at 30%, correct?  Thats using the round edge with one coat on each side. Ulano Blue emulsion.

how do I get down to 20%

[Dottonedan]

I suggest a 1:1 round edge for starters. Higher mesh 230-305-355 would be at the 10-13% range. A tad higher on low mesh. A typical speed is set at 50.

The standard or default PSI is 17lb.  This can be adjusted between 15-30 if I remember well. I would not adjust this much outside of the 17 myself. I'd look elsewhere to adjust. Speed for example. A decent speed is between 30-50  Slower gives you more, faster gives you less.

A note to those doing a single pass on the back (squeegee side) as a 3rd coat. This is where you will find out if you have adjusted (balanced out) the pressure on each side.If it's out, you will see a heavier application that you did not see before with a 1:1. People often want to do this 3rd pass to push that emulsion further out to the print side. This is desirable if your passes are fast and light on the first round. It's a balance. If not, could be way too much.

People should also know that the MAIN pressure valve overall, should be set to 50lb on the nose. This is in you manual if you got one.

As for HOW you change speed, it is on that top LCD screen.

[Alex M]

how do you control the speed?  I just see the dial for psi and I have it at 16.

just now getting into looking at eom after the virus seminar.

Checked my 156s uncoated and got 88, coated 125, that puts my eom at 30%, correct?  Thats using the round edge with one coat on each side. Ulano Blue emulsion.

how do I get down to 20%

Depending on model
Older unit it’s a black POT knob
Newer unit it’s on the LCD touch screen


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[screenprintguy]

doing some tests with Joe Clarke, using Murakmi T9 emulsion, we coat in one pass only. Round edge inside, sharp edge outside. Our speed is 40. Perfect stencils always, for us, with the perfect JC approved EOM =). When we ran Chromatec w/r emulsion, we ran the settings that Danny gave us and it was great. Over time we realized with Joe's help, that the two emulsions had differences and we were having a weak squeegee side EOM. I know the reversing of the edges sound different from what we have all been taught, but if you follow the theory of gravity pulling the liquid through the mesh to the face of the screen until surface tension is achieved, coating a thicker amount on the inside, "with and auto coater", because the auto coater actually pushes pressure on the surface, will allow gravity to pull the emulsion through without weakening the squeegee side of the coating. So for instance, through a microscope, this method you'll see more of a smooth surface for your squeegee to shear across, vs a bumpy surface of barely covered mesh knuckles. At least for "us", doing the Joe Clarke 9 zone tests, this method made a huuuuuuuuuge difference in detail, opacity, proper ink transfer to shirt ect. One other thing to consider, is that we run all Murakami S thread, so this method really excels on thin thread mesh types.

[IntegriTees]

Guess I have the older machine.  Just a year old and I wish I could retrofit the electronic panel.

Going to look at adjusting speed.  Since the knob is just used as a faster/slower system with the turns.  Can anyone tell me the time in seconds that a 25/40/65 speed setting takes to coat a regular 23x31 screen?