Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas Edison
before we went CTS, this would happen when emulsion wasn't bone dry and the residual moisture in the emulsion would pull that ink off. Cranked our dehumidifier up and as long as we weren't rushing the drying of screens, like say at least over night for the coating to dry, it stopped. Could just be something simple like that. It was a pain though I know for sure.
Simply dust the screen with some baby powder and your sticking problems will go away.Mooseman
...And reverse-printing so that ink is away from the emulsion instead of against it isn't a good fix. The thickness of the film creates enough of a gap between ink & emulsion that it can mean fine halftones won't blow out. (Learned this a long time ago when a film was accidentally burned wrong side down. All of the other screens in the 4cp job washed out perfectly, the reversed film wouldn't.)
Quote from: screenprintguy on December 27, 2016, 06:39:49 PMbefore we went CTS, this would happen when emulsion wasn't bone dry and the residual moisture in the emulsion would pull that ink off. Cranked our dehumidifier up and as long as we weren't rushing the drying of screens, like say at least over night for the coating to dry, it stopped. Could just be something simple like that. It was a pain though I know for sure.that's easy enough to trywe run a dehumidifer, but it's not cranked. unless it's even drier outside, usually hold 30-35% humidity in there. not good enough?
Adding the thickness of the film chokes the dots. Trick we used to sometimes use on purpose when working with real films, generally when making contact prints of positives and negatives.
Don't trust the readings on the dehumidifiers. I've been in screen rooms that were large enough that they had 3 of them in there, (all the same) and each had different readings that were as much as 25% off from each other. Then we tested these, and sent them side by side. Same readings.They do their job of removing the water in the air well enough, but they don't read accurate on the humidity. I'll bet I've only seen one out of 50 be within 10% of accurate. It seems they put something in there that is about equal to a $5.00 item at Wal-Mart. The one I carried around with me wasn't even right. I quite trying with that after one or two times of finding out it wasn't even close. That was about a $20.00 item.The ones I've seen work well and consistently, the shops had spend in the area of $50-$60.00 on at a Grainger or Home Depot. It's only a one time buy, every 5 years or so, so don't go cheap on it. And keep in mid, it's only going to be accurate within close proximity of where it's located. Not the whole room. Small rooms of 10x15 or less can sue one. Larger than that, get another. Keep one near the drying area and one near the storage area.In best scenarios, there is a coating room, a forced drying area such as a cabinet (inside) or separate from... a storage area, but I realize most don't have that room available. It's defeating the purpose of having a storage area...if you introduce new wet screens into the same room. This is where people have issues with really old screens of 2 wks old or using screens that are not fully dried (due to not letting them dry long enough because they keep getting wet screens introduced. It should be at least an hour for drying well. If you need to use them faster. then you have too little numbers of screens. You can avoid that by using a drying cabinet and dry them faster so you can sue them faster....or, you can buy more screens.