S Mesh - Do you have it?

[Prince Art]

I'd really like to know the actual usable image space you get out of a 23x31.

You are left with 15 3/4" X 23 3/4" (on a 23 X 31 with 2" border)

I would think you would want the actual print to be a bit smaller...

We also do 1" borders if that helps 

Thanks! Good to know. (Printing 14.5"w for an order today. )

[alan802]

I've got numbers for the "sweet spot" or the recommended maximum print size for roller frames and static alums for 23x31 and they are as follows.

Roller frame, 23x31:  14" x 17"
Static alum, 23x31: 12" x 14"

Obviously the vast majority of print shops go larger and they do it all the time, I'm not saying it shouldn't be done.  These numbers are obviously not my own, they are from several sources and from guys who have done the work of figuring this stuff out so those numbers weren't pulled out of a hat.  If you stay within the sweet spot mentioned above you will have better results across the board.  It's not my opinion, it's just a fact.  Most of the time you'll likely not notice the problems if you creep outside of the sweet spot, especially if it's only by less than an inch, and the problems will come about the further you try to stretch the limits of those screens.  We will often times do adult and youth sized prints for a job and also be able to fit them both on one screen (so you don't have the excuse that one screen is better/worse than the other) and the youth print, 100% of the time, sets up quicker and prints better.  There are myriad issues that CAN arise (doesn't mean they will, but the probability increases significantly) and you'll see registration issues and varying degrees of ink deposits across the print.  When pairing the oversized print with a squeegee blade that isn't wide enough you start to see all kinds of strange problems.

[Prince Art]

Thanks for that input, Alan. I read a good article some time back discussing the math involved in the "sweet spot" on the screen, but I don't recall specifics being given for frame sizes/types. For our multi-color work, we stay close to your numbers. If we push beyond that, it's for art that won't suffer from going beyond preferable tolerances. As a small shop with many younger clients, our bread & butter has been to cater to people who need to do more with less - so a lot of big, basic 1-3 color prints.

And that brings me back to the S-mesh question, if anyone still feels like talking about it. We've never used it. Does it have a place in a manual shop? Does it bring advantages to less complex artwork & the manual process, or are the benefits seen primarily in more technical auto printing? (And if this has been answered elsewhere, someone tell me, and I'll go do my homework searching old discussions!)

[IntegrityShirts]

Yes manual printers can benefit just as much as auto with s mesh. Wrists ever tired from mashing white ink through a 110 screen? Try a 135s and be amazed, but be gentle handling the screen.

[Prosperi-Tees]

S mesh and manual printing is more advantageous than auto printing in my opinion. Less pressure to clear a screen for sure and more opacity. Also reclaim is much easier with S mesh.

[CBCB]

S mesh and manual printing is more advantageous than auto printing in my opinion. Less pressure to clear a screen for sure and more opacity. Also reclaim is much easier with S mesh.

Yep, this is how we understand it too. Just starting switching our fleet over.

Less pressure, more opacity, and higher detail. Can't go wrong if we can make them last!


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[Prosperi-Tees]

What type of press do you have?