Inverted Tri-Loc FPU

[Stinkhorn Press]

working on recreating Alan's inverted Tri-Loc FPU.

I (think I am) getting the steps to make the FPU end, but I was always confused as to what exactly he had fabbed up to go on the press, since he was running an RPM (like me).
So I called him. DUH. He was just using a Tri-Loc platen. (RPMs have side clamps, so I assumed it wouldn't work. Turns out that the two side stops can straddle the side clamp. Never even occurred to me to check.) that's awesome news.

however:
*This RPM is the only auto I've spent more than 2 hours around, so I'm not real aware as to what is and isn't available on any given setup.*

Assumption 1: all Tri-Loc platens are pretty much the same (for a given screen size).
Assumption 2: my RPM platen clamps are built to take a M&R style platens, but are unique to RPM (?)

there are 2 pins and 4 small allen headed screws holding the Tri-Loc platen top to it's base (the u channel underneath)
the 4 screwheads sit IN the U channel space and hit my clamps, preventing it from sitting down into the clamp as it should.

my plan is to: take each screw out, one at a time - put them back in with threadlok and then grind the tops off smooth.

but before i do that i wanted to see if anyone had a better solution, the Tri-Loc platen is useless if that connection is loose at all. 

[jsheridan]

replace them with counter sunk ones and the problem goes away.

edit.. tried to link the screw from mcmaster but keeps going to main page and not the item

[Stinkhorn Press]

replace them with counter sunk ones and the problem goes away.

edit.. tried to link the screw from mcmaster but keeps going to main page and not the item

yes! great! much betters. man, that'll be one tiny allen to fit inside that threaded space...

[Stinkhorn Press]

hmm.
grind it off won't work as the U channel isn't threaded, it's just an oversized hole and the head of bolt provides the screw with something to pull against.

but the countersunk screw idea also won't work unless I have a way to cut the U channel so the countersunk tapered head has a V to sit in.

[mimosatexas]

I may not be understanding the issue, but I am using Alan's old triloc platen that he had made and attached it to the U channel using the same tape ever other pallet uses and have zero issues.

[jsheridan]

I have a way to cut the U channel so the countersunk tapered head has a V to sit in.

you need a counter sink bit to match the angle of the screw.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#countersink-drills/=14m5nbx

[spotcolorsupply]

That ^^^

Or the low profile button head screws may give you enough clearance...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-screws/=14mevky

[Stinkhorn Press]

would it be simplest to take it to a machine shop that can weld aluminum and have it tacked together?

I may not be understanding the issue, but I am using Alan's old triloc platen that he had made and attached it to the U channel using the same tape ever other pallet uses and have zero issues.

the platen DOES appear to have tape/glue also holding the channel to the platen itself. should that be strong enough to hold if I just took the screws out?

I have a way to cut the U channel so the countersunk tapered head has a V to sit in.

you need a counter sink bit to match the angle of the screw.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#countersink-drills/=14m5nbx

not trying to be a negative nancy: would that not be very tricky to get lined up just so centered properly over existing threads? like trying to cut a 2" hole saw drill attachment with no centering bit?

That ^^^

Or the low profile button head screws may give you enough clearance...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-screws/=14mevky

fairly sure I need zero interference in the channel space to work with my style platen clamps on press

[Stinkhorn Press]

FIXED IT. we hope. had it spot welded by a backwoods weld shop.
the tape/glue makes a bit of mess when welding aluminum.