S Mesh - Do you have it?

[inkstain]

Aloha Everyone!
A while back (few yrs ago) I got some S Mesh for my rollers.  They worked awesome for a while then eventually they went bye bye due to breakage (had them on rollers).  I'm considering getting some on aluminum frames soon but had some questions.
What mesh count should I get for underbase?
What mesh count for PFP?
What mesh count for top colors?
I'm guessing I get them from Spot Color as they are in California as I'm located in Hawaii and shipping is an arm and two legs

Thanks guys!

Al @ murkami will sell direct from California.
Shane

contact info  :
Alan Buffington
Technical Sales
MURAKAMI SCREEN USA
745 Monterey Pass Rd.
Monterey Park, CA
91754
800.562.3534
323.980.0662 ext 118
323.697.4334 cell

Thank you for the info

[cbjamel]

Yep, no problem.
Shane

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

[domineight]

Been using 59s (metric) for a long time for underbase white.
A mix of 120s, 140s, 150s, 165s for halftone/CMYK in both textile and graphic printing.

Never really been bothered outside of those mesh counts. Everything else can be a T apart from a couple of 90HD I have sitting around for printing off the edge of goofy sharpish things.

I think the 59s was a pretty good breakthrough back in the day.

[balloonguy]

I would like to get some frames re-stretched. Does anyone have a list of vendors that offer the service (South East Preferably)?
Thanks,
Matt

[im_mcguire]

I would like to get some frames re-stretched. Does anyone have a list of vendors that offer the service (South East Preferably)?
Thanks,
Matt

No question, go to Spot Color Supply. They are out of Atlanta I believe.

[rusty]

I would like to get some frames re-stretched. Does anyone have a list of vendors that offer the service (South East Preferably)?
Thanks,
Matt

No question, go to Spot Color Supply. They are out of Atlanta I believe.

Absolutely. Just started using S-mesh and will be switching all our textile printing over to it and have been using spot color supply. They have been great to work with.

I find it funny some of the screen supply places up here don't even know about s-mesh.

[ffokazak]

Where are you guys buying the Bolt mesh from?

We just started using River City and the Mirukami Smesh is cheaper than I was paying for regular thread in canada.

Just wondering who you guys buy bolts from!

[Rockers]

Where are you guys buying the Bolt mesh from?

We just started using River City and the Mirukami Smesh is cheaper than I was paying for regular thread in canada.

Just wondering who you guys buy bolts from!

We buy from Murakami.

[alan802]

Where are you guys buying the Bolt mesh from?

We just started using River City and the Mirukami Smesh is cheaper than I was paying for regular thread in canada.

Just wondering who you guys buy bolts from!

River City, but he's a 10 minute drive away.

[IntegrityShirts]

I got in 6 150S frames from Spot Color with the permanent block out with caulked interior seams. I might just be a convert and get rid of screen tape. These are freakin awesome. Saves so much time and materials. Screens are REALLY TIGHT, too. I've never had statics with S-mesh this tight.

On another note, what do I use if I want to permanently block out my other older static frames? Where do you guys get that stuff?

[Racer Tees]

I got in 6 150S frames from Spot Color with the permanent block out with caulked interior seams. I might just be a convert and get rid of screen tape. These are freakin awesome. Saves so much time and materials. Screens are REALLY TIGHT, too. I've never had statics with S-mesh this tight.

On another note, what do I use if I want to permanently block out my other older static frames? Where do you guys get that stuff?

How wide is your image area inside the blockout?  They tried to talk me into it when I did my initial batch, but I didn't bite.

[IntegrityShirts]

Not sure. I think I have a 17 or 18" coater and it overlaps the blockout by 1/2" or so. Wider than my shirt platens on the press so wider than I'll ever need!

[Prince Art]

Not sure. I think I have a 17 or 18" coater and it overlaps the blockout by 1/2" or so. Wider than my shirt platens on the press so wider than I'll ever need!

Never say never! At least in my experience, you never know when the right job will make you want to push your parameters. (I'm on a manual, though, and one of the few pluses to that is that it's generally easier to accommodate requests for unexpected shapes/sizes/locationss.)

But your previous comments about the permanent blockout have me interested too -- I'd really like to know the actual usable image space you get out of a 23x31.

I'm also curious how many MANUAL shops use S-mesh. We don't yet, but this forum has got me really considering it. FWIW: I only use 23x31 screens, so there's no loss if we go auto in the future.

[spotcolorsupply]

I'd really like to know the actual usable image space you get out of a 23x31.

You are left with 15 3/4" X 23 3/4" (on a 23 X 31 with 2" border)

I would think you would want the actual print to be a bit smaller...

We also do 1" borders if that helps 

[IntegrityShirts]

I'd really like to know the actual usable image space you get out of a 23x31.

You are left with 15 3/4" X 23 3/4" (on a 23 X 31 with 2" border)

I would think you would want the actual print to be a bit smaller...

We also do 1" borders if that helps 

Makes sense. I don't think I have ever printed wider than 14" for an order.