NextGen Cotton and NextGen Poly

[jvanick]

I do a lot of 50/50's. Just ordered a gallon of the Poly. I've been using Street Fighter LB as my go to, is this stuff comparable or will it blow it out of the water?

not even in the same league... SO much better.

[Nation03]

Okay awesome! For the price, I was okay with SF, but it wasn't ideal. If all goes well I'm going to make NextGen my go to for white and black ink.

[AntonySharples]

We run only NexGen poly....on everything.  Total game changer.

[screenprintguy]

question on the low cure temp. What if there are other colors/inks involved in a design that require higher cure temp?

[Gilligan]

Can't over cure plastisol.

[screenprintguy]

Right but, if the low cure part is based on curing below 300 degrees and you have top colors needing 320 or higher, do you lose the bleed resistance from the hotter temps. I'm sure that's why Dave went to using the base with his pigment system to keep everything at that low temp. Just curious as we are seriously considering getting away from the RFU mixing system we use now and going pc based. We will have a crap ton of already mixed colors, but I guess we can go through them over time on cotton and not sweat it.

[jvanick]

Right but, if the low cure part is based on curing below 300 degrees and you have top colors needing 320 or higher, do you lose the bleed resistance from the hotter temps. I'm sure that's why Dave went to using the base with his pigment system to keep everything at that low temp. Just curious as we are seriously considering getting away from the RFU mixing system we use now and going pc based. We will have a crap ton of already mixed colors, but I guess we can go through them over time on cotton and not sweat it.

we've had no issues curing Synergy Poly at 330-340... you can continue to use your top colors on top of his poly ink with no issues...  if anything it's likely better as even if you're running the shirts fast, as long as the top layer of ink is hitting 320 in the dryer, the base will still likely be cured as it cures down at the 280-290 range.

add the Zero after-flash tack to the list, and it's killer to print on.

[AntonySharples]

You're not going to get dye migration at 320 or 330 degrees.  (Badger camo and Sport Tech hex camo notwithstanding)  Keep your curing temp between 325-330 and you will be golden.  Key for NexGen is to not over flash.  You should be at a 2-3 sec flash.  Once we got the flash dialed in, our whites are some of the nicest you will see or feel for plastisol.

[screenprintguy]

Thanks for the info guys. I think I'll give both cotton and poly a try. Been using Legacy white for our cottons and Rutland Super Poly for 50/50 and poly, but from what everyone has been saying, this stuff beats out both.

[Gilligan]

My batch of "All of the above" comes in on Thursday... chomping at the bit here.

[screenprintguy]

Nice!! Bimmridder has nothing  but praises for the inks.

[blue moon]

Can't over cure plastisol.

actually you can. It is not a catastrophic failure, but if you overcook most inks that cure at 275 and run it at 350 you can see some problems. . .
Joe's ink cures low, but will handle higher temps better than most as far as I understand. . .
pierre

[Rob Coleman]

You certainly can overcure (remelt) plastisol.  It is rather rare. Many times the plastisol that had hot this temp will be extremely glossy.

Also, big difference in dye migration and dye sublimation, albeit the end result is similar (ink discoloration). Migration occurs when the available plasticizer solvated the poly dye and brings it to the surface - solid to liquid if you will.  This happens 24 hours to weeks later. Even slightly under cured inks can exasperate this.

Sublimation on the other hand is solid to gas and generally seen immediately at the end of the dryer.  Polyester dyes are sets with heat, the fibers expand and absorb the dye. In the good old days, all mills used high energy dyes and you generally did not see this until 350+ F.  Now, most mills use cheap low energy dyes, and you can indeed experience sublimation at 300F in cases. Hence the never ending challenge for plastisol manufacturers to continue to lower cure temps.



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[Printficient]

I am happy to work on site to help you dial in this and other parameters in your shop.

[SI]

We received 5 gallons of the cotton and a gallon of the poly.  Clears the screen easier than anything Ive ever printed so far.  Super happy with the inks.  The cotton white results are just amazing compared to any other ink i have printed.  The opacity and brightness I am getting would have taken more than a p/f/p with anything else I have tried previously.