Testing a Few Emulsions

[mimosatexas]

Trying out a sample of Aquasol HS (High Solids) and finally testing T9 as well. 

First impression (coating), the HS is like trying to coat with peanut butter.  Not a fan... Hoping the stencil is as thick as I am aiming for, but honestly seems like it would just be better to use cap film for the same purpose.  The T9 acted pretty much exactly like HVP, so assuming it is more durable it seems like a good option.  Screens coated were 83/71, being used for one hit whites, shimmers, etc.

Quick "newbie" question, but will the T9 benefit from a longer exposure or just post exposure, or both?  These are going to be used for low detail art, and the mesh is yellow, and exposed with a 5k MH and super solid films, so I am not too concerned about undercutting.  More interested in just getting a bullet proof screen.

[Frog]

Trying out a sample of Aquasol HS (High Solids) and finally testing T9 as well. 

First impression (coating), the HS is like trying to coat with peanut butter.  Not a fan...

Wow, you find 43% solids so high that it is like peanut butter? Is this the first high solids emulsion you've tried? Perhaps it is also way higher in viscosity. as I typically use emulsions with up to 50% solids, and love them, and now find the others watery and trickier to control.

Quick "newbie" question, but will the T9 benefit from a longer exposure or just post exposure, or both?  These are going to be used for low detail art, and the mesh is yellow, and exposed with a 5k MH and super solid films, so I am not too concerned about undercutting.  More interested in just getting a bullet proof screen.

Correct exposure is correct exposure. One doesn't over expose to make them more durable if exposed correctly.
That's done with post exposure, the best friend of photopolymers.

[mimosatexas]

It could be a bad batch, but it is absolutely like peanut butter. Had to card it toward the mesh while in the trough. It just wasn't moving with gravity...

Good to know about the exposure vs post exposure. I know with sp1400 a hard 7 is fine, but the screen only gets more durable the longer I leave it under the light.

[Doug S]

I'm testing Cryocoat today.  So far I'm happy with what I'm getting.  I'm able to get up hold everything at 95% down to 5% with a 1200 watt metal halide.  It coats like a dream also.

[LoneWolf2]

I'm testing Cryocoat today.  So far I'm happy with what I'm getting.  I'm able to get up hold everything at 95% down to 5% with a 1200 watt metal halide.  It coats like a dream also.

Love this stuff. On my fourth or fifth gallon of it now.

[IntegrityShirts]

I'm testing Cryocoat today.  So far I'm happy with what I'm getting.  I'm able to get up hold everything at 95% down to 5% with a 1200 watt metal halide.  It coats like a dream also.

So that's pretty much Saati's Textil PHU with a green pigment instead of pink or blue yeah? The safety data sheet says it's made by Saati.

[Gilligan]

Anyone using Cryocoat with a 3140?  What kind of exposure times/units are you guys getting?

We have some, but haven't had the time to do a proper test so haven't used it.  A ball park could help us tune it in on the fly fast.

We currently use Kiwo One Coat and used to mainly use Chroma Blue.

[Doug S]

Anyone using Cryocoat with a 3140?  What kind of exposure times/units are you guys getting?

We have some, but haven't had the time to do a proper test so haven't used it.  A ball park could help us tune it in on the fly fast.

We currently use Kiwo One Coat and used to mainly use Chroma Blue.

We are using an Amerigraph 150 with a 1200 watt light compared to the 3140 with 1000 watt light.  I only got around to testing 280 s mesh and the 225's with a 1/1 coat round edge using a fairly slow coat each side "approximately 4 seconds".  The 280 had an optimal exposure of 48 light units and the 225 was at 53 ltu.  My bulb is fairly old so I've got a couple of new bulbs on the way.  As long as my integrator is working correctly, that should get you fairly close.

[mimosatexas]

So T9 is an utter failure out of the gate for this test (higher eom on 83/71).  Dried for 5 hours in 35% RH and 85F.  Exposure on the Olec5k took around maybe 30 seconds at the distance I have it for a hard 7 on the Stouffer strip.  Emulsion is insanely sticky, to the point that it ripped my film when trying to remove it and was pretty close to cemented to my glass as well.  Could take longer to dry I guess, but my sp1400 is bone dry in the same conditions in about 30 minutes with no stickiness at all.  Was able to catch the emulsion with my nail and literally delaminate huge chunks of it from the mesh as well.  No scumming at all, just not gripping the thin threads I guess...

About to test the HS with the same conditions.

[mimosatexas]

OK, the HS is suffering from pretty much the same issues, sticky and easy to pull off the mesh.  The SP1400 is having neither issue, but of course it takes longer to expose.

Is anyone out there using a non-diazo emulsion for high eom with thin thread mesh and not having delamination issues?  Just trying to troubleshoot.

[Frog]

OK, the HS is suffering from pretty much the same issues, sticky and easy to pull off the mesh.  The SP1400 is having neither issue, but of course it takes longer to expose.

Is anyone out there using a non-diazo emulsion for high eom with thin thread mesh and not having delamination issues?  Just trying to troubleshoot.

I think that you need to contact the Murakami man himself abuffington@murakamiscreen.com. Heck these are both Murakami products. I do see that he hasn't been around here in almost a month though.

[mimosatexas]

will do.  just grabbed some baby powder, going to do some more testing...

[Rockers]

Anyone using Cryocoat with a 3140?  What kind of exposure times/units are you guys getting?

We have some, but haven't had the time to do a proper test so haven't used it.  A ball park could help us tune it in on the fly fast.

We currently use Kiwo One Coat and used to mainly use Chroma Blue.

We are using an Amerigraph 150 with a 1200 watt light compared to the 3140 with 1000 watt light.  I only got around to testing 280 s mesh and the 225's with a 1/1 coat round edge using a fairly slow coat each side "approximately 4 seconds".  The 280 had an optimal exposure of 48 light units and the 225 was at 53 ltu.  My bulb is fairly old so I've got a couple of new bulbs on the way.  As long as my integrator is working correctly, that should get you fairly close.

Hate to say it but the MSP3140 comes as well equipped with a 1200W light source.

[Doug S]

My bad, I thought it was a 1000 watt.  I should've checked.  Well that will get him even closer on exposure times.

[jvanick]

Is anyone out there using a non-diazo emulsion for high eom with thin thread mesh and not having delamination issues?  Just trying to troubleshoot.

I have been working with Saati on this... we still have random delamination issues on thin-thread... thick thread is nearly bullet proof, but throw thin thread into the mix, and EOM from 12% up to 50% fail (they all will fail at the higher end, above 30%)...

We've tried:  starlight, saati multi-300, even sun exposures, everything post exposed for a LONG time in the sun or on the multi 300....

Different emulsions, (even sp1400 sometimes had delam issues -- although less than ANY of the photopolymers we've tried)... Murakami, Kiwo, Chromaline, Ulano, Saati  ... we thought we had the problem solved with mesh abrasion, but it wasn't

and before you ask, the Saati screens have been imaged and checked out by their pros, so it's not an under-exposure issue.. if anything, we're OVER exposed.

The issue seems to be made worse by more pressure, and higher off-contact, along with sharp/hard squeegees.