80 lpi on 380 as an underbase.

[Dottonedan]

This was printed as a white underbase on a 380 mesh at 80 line screen halftone using an M&R I-Image STE DTS. Coated 1/1 sharp edge. The exposure was 2 seconds. High pressure wand about 2000 psi. Stencil was bullet proof. Nothing off the back coming off, tried to blow a hole in the stencil about 3" away for a period of 20-30 seconds. Drying humidity was at 43% and room temp was a steady 78 degrees. Fresh screen from under 2 days old. I shouldn't mention specific brands of emulsion since this can be achieved with many brands.

This printer runs high quantity. 1000-50,000 units per order.

The underbase was intended to show as a fine mist of dots fading to the shirt and taking advantage of the garment color and texture while bright enough to support the top colors and a highlight white for the true white areas.

Actual printed shirt. Some people have said that there is no need or no benefit from using such a high line screen on apparel. In general, I would agree, but there are times it's beneficial. Yes, it's possible and yes it can look good.

I will try to get a complete image in color tomorrow.

[mimosatexas]

This is just the underbase right? Have a pic of the final print?

[Dottonedan]

No, they didn't get to it while I was there. My job was done so I don't know if they printed all colors.
Mnext shop that has high mesh, I'll try to get them to print the entire job.

[Doug S]

That looks like the image that is coming out of the rocket launcher when they were advertised. lol

[Alex M]

It is


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[Screened Gear]

That art didn't need 80 lpi.

[Dottonedan]

Well what can I say?  I take it then, that with your infinite wisdom of fine halftone work, you know then, that one mans 45 is another mans 80. it's all in what your paradigm is like, your customer base, what you are comfortable doing that defines for you, what should an art file should be done at.

This company uses 80lpi on many of their jobs and wanted to see how the machine did at 80lpi. I did it at their request, and here it is.

Wether it is needed to be done at 80 or less is a personal preference and a matter of personal achievement. They like to say they print at 80 lpi so they do. And they do it well and have the right equipment to do so.  For those that don't, won't or can't, they obviously print with less and that becomes their world. There are some who print with 100lpi. Could it be done at 45-65?  Sure, but not with (as much) overall image quality. I'll note tho, that you have to treat the seps accordingly.

[Doug S]

Dan, I forgot to ask, what was the angle to get the 80 lpi without moire?  I know with the epson based dts, I can't seem to get above 65 lpi on a 330 mesh without a little waviness to it.

[Dottonedan]

Good question and I should have mentioned it. They said when they try 22.5 it works well enough in the lower LPI but at 80, they use 61.  Don't know where they got 61, but apparently it works for them. I've been shown their 22.5 jobs at 50 and 55 and you could see some mesh banding/aching at the outer edges of the imprint. That's where you will see it most. At the outsides.