Just a Video

[Frog]

Okay, bear with my craziness, but every time I see the subject of this thread, I think of this!

[Donnie]

Nice Vid bro... Thanks!

[Joe Clarke]

Does the flood pressure & speed also change with the fast print speed?

It depends if the ink is shear thinning, barely shear thinning or shear thickening.

If the ink is shear thinning the flood bar should be proximate to the mesh and speed should be maximum.

If the ink is shear thickening it is best to leave a gap between bar and mesh greater than the wet film thickness and run the flood as slow as practical not to detract from throughput.

[Joe Clarke]

There seems to be no angle on the squeegee, is there?
Is anyone printing fast using regular mesh?

The"speed limit" is based on the fluid flow level of the mesh, the tack level of the ink and the pressure differential created by the blade.

So the best case scenario for speed is a high flow rate mesh, (Jason had found a good one) a low tack ink and a blade to create a maximum fluid pressure differential by making a minimum edge, right deal with a profile to maximize the shearing force.

[IntegrityShirts]

There seems to be no angle on the squeegee, is there?
Is anyone printing fast using regular mesh?

The"speed limit" is based on the fluid flow level of the mesh, the tack level of the ink and the pressure differential created by the blade.

So the best case scenario for speed is a high flow rate mesh, (Jason had found a good one) a low tack ink and a blade to create a maximum fluid pressure differential by making a minimum edge, right deal with a profile to maximize the shearing force.

I think, in english, that means a double bevel squeegee and open S-thread mesh 

I still haven't gotten back to my gallon of this ink as I have been way too busy with my full time job, but I know that when I do I need to adjust my dryer temps down a bunch to make it just right. I just haven't had the time to actually put into it, but I have all the other pieces to the puzzle. Joe, you even called and left me a message months ago and I appreciate that. Once I get it nailed down I'm sure it will be my next go-to white. That might happen when the bucket runs low on the white I use now though haha

[Joe Clarke]

There seems to be no angle on the squeegee, is there?
Is anyone printing fast using regular mesh?

The"speed limit" is based on the fluid flow level of the mesh, the tack level of the ink and the pressure differential created by the blade.

So the best case scenario for speed is a high flow rate mesh, (Jason had found a good one) a low tack ink and a blade to create a maximum fluid pressure differential by making a minimum edge, right deal with a profile to maximize the shearing force.

I think, in english, that means a double bevel squeegee and open S-thread mesh 

I still haven't gotten back to my gallon of this ink as I have been way too busy with my full time job, but I know that when I do I need to adjust my dryer temps down a bunch to make it just right. I just haven't had the time to actually put into it, but I have all the other pieces to the puzzle. Joe, you even called and left me a message months ago and I appreciate that. Once I get it nailed down I'm sure it will be my next go-to white. That might happen when the bucket runs low on the white I use now though haha

Elijah; regarding the blade and mesh you are absolutely looking in the right direction--sorry about the techno-babble! As a yound lad, Mom & Dad stored me in the pantry in which there was food, a Thesarus and a Physics Book, what I wrote and you read is the result of a misspent childhood.

Mesh first - all mesh has a fill-rate this is the volume it can accept in a given amount of time. A mesh with a larger opening has a higher fill-rate than one with a smaller opening. Each mesh is capable of holding a given volume of ink and in fact this is the ideal quantity of ink to ensure top quality imaging. The fluid flow rate is how much ink the mesh is capable of transferriing in a given time. We ALWAYS want this number as high as possible and then to provide the right deposit. For example Jason's selection if filled to the limit will deposit 3.5mils of ink and it will be easy to fill because it has a high fluid flow rate.

What Jason found is the 100/71 has a high fill-rate, a low capacity and a very high fluid flow rate. And as he expressed, it gives him a superior results and a lot of control over the deposit. 

The blade could be any variety but the edge has to fit to the mesh in order to make a tight seal with minimum pressure. On Jason's mesh we might use a triple square on both edges, a supported, soft single durometer blade,  or a double bevel ETC. The key is the profile of the blade during the stroke must apply sufficient force to raise the fluid pressure in the ink, with a proper seal, transfer is positive and speed is permitted.

I called you as a courtesy because each gallon of NexGen contains a time-activated tranceiver. You might know this piece of electronics as a "homing device". Six months to the day the gallon, if unopened, begins the journey to return itself to our inventory. Since you are on the East Coast and we are in Chicago, I expect it might take some time, but ultimately we'll get it back--you may want to go check to see if it is still in your shop.

[jsheridan]

I've got time to pick my nose with that index speed..

 

[LoneWolf2]

This is some serious technical talk that I never really even thought of. Definitely an intriguing approach to look at! Who would've thought there was more to it than mashing ink through the screen!

[Rockers]

Does the flood pressure & speed also change with the fast print speed?

It depends if the ink is shear thinning, barely shear thinning or shear thickening.

If the ink is shear thinning the flood bar should be proximate to the mesh and speed should be maximum.

If the ink is shear thickening it is best to leave a gap between bar and mesh greater than the wet film thickness and run the flood as slow as practical not to detract from throughput.

Any chance of getting some of this fine white to try in my shop here in  Japan?

[Joe Clarke]

Does the flood pressure & speed also change with the fast print speed?

It depends if the ink is shear thinning, barely shear thinning or shear thickening.

If the ink is shear thinning the flood bar should be proximate to the mesh and speed should be maximum.

If the ink is shear thickening it is best to leave a gap between bar and mesh greater than the wet film thickness and run the flood as slow as practical not to detract from throughput.

Any chance of getting some of this fine white to try in my shop here in  Japan?

Rockers,

Thank you for the inquiry but I am afraid we are not quite ready for international distribution and of course the freight cost to ship end-user quantities of ink is most often prohibitive.

Our focus right now is on the basics; customer service, supply chain and a paced, protracted effort toward new product / same customer growth. Case in point we have just now launched a low bleed / poly white. We must be careful not to over reach for too much, too soon.

I have noted your interest and hope you can be patient while we care for our domestic clients. I will contact you when we are ready to the international market.

Ask the best,
Joe

[ZooCity]

Revisiting this and had a question:

Does anyone know how to get an M&R press to print this way?  i.e., drop the squeegee blade all the way first and then stroke fast?  No matter how I adjust our timers I can't get our press to do this.  It "skims" over the top of the image and won't clear it.  Leads to double stroking and other work arounds.

[jvanick]

Revisiting this and had a question:

Does anyone know how to get an M&R press to print this way?  i.e., drop the squeegee blade all the way first and then stroke fast?  No matter how I adjust our timers I can't get our press to do this.  It "skims" over the top of the image and won't clear it.  Leads to double stroking and other work arounds.

I assume you have an air press?  the A/C head ones definitely stroke at full pressure as soon as they start the print stroke...

I think that's just a factor of the beast of air presses.. you have to get enough pressure/air in the cylinder to start moving the print head...

[Prosperi-Tees]

Nature of the beast with air heads

[ZooCity]

2013 AC/Servo Sportsman.

Blade flys over the top portion of the print.  When you are printing really fast the stroke begins before the blade hits mesh, depending on squeegee angle.

I would love to set it like Alan has in the vid: flood, drop, wait, print stroke. 

[jsheridan]

2013 AC/Servo Sportsman.

Blade flys over the top portion of the print.  When you are printing really fast the stroke begins before the blade hits mesh, depending on squeegee angle.

I would love to set it like Alan has in the vid: flood, drop, wait, print stroke.

It's in the settings menu behind a password. You can set the delay before the head takes off.